Route continued 17/9 Seix to Foix. Cloudy,misty start then brighter and warmer. 50mls
We were contemplating another day here to go up the Port d'Aula 2260' on the Spanish border but the weather looked decidingly unpromising so we decided to move on. Very cool as we went down to Oust and then a lovely minor road on a steady gradient climbing up to the Col de Saraille at 904' - mist hanging in the valley provided us with very atmospheric mountain views. Cool descent to Massat for our cafe stop. A lovely 8ml ascent on very easy gradients then over the Col des Caougnous 947' to the Col de Port at 1250' - great views back and from the top in both directions. Brighter weather now as we descended to Tarascon and then along the valley to Foix. Hotel Eychenne: Room with shower 150frs. No restaurant, plenty nearby.
Ascending Col de Saraille
Higher slopes of Col de Port
18/9 Foix to Quillan. Misty, very misty and cool. 56mls
Took the D1 minor road north of Foix gently climbing into a very quiet and scenic valley. Nipped up and down the Col de Py 523' on the way before continuing to Lavelanet for our cafe stop. More minor roads through Villeneuve and Montferrier before a hard climb into the mist to the Col de Montsegur 1059' & Montsegur village - no views whatsoever, mist down to our ankles! BPF stamp here-Cathar site and Chateau ruins which although they are only 100 metres or so from the road we couldn't see them. A bumpy descent before we turned up a side a valley to see the Gorges de Frau which probably was not a wise thing to do - too misty to see anything properly. Retraced then followed the main road - but generally quiet - over the Col de Babourade 655' and the Col du Portel 601' before dropping steeply down to Quillan.
Hotel le Terminus: Rooms 110 to 210frs. Good varied menus.
19/9 Quillan. Day ride into the surrounding gorges and hills. Bright then rainy and cloudy then drier. 56mls
Main road to Axat through the Defile de Pierre-Lys then the quieter D118 through the Gorges de St Georges and the Gorges de l'Aude - all very scenic. Stopped at a small Auberge for a coffee before turning off and climbing onto the plateau on the D20, where the rain started, and down into the Gorges du Rebenty and a lunch stop at the hamlet of Niort. Very quiet around here, a narrow road in a lovely wooded gorge passing through small hamlets, no cafes unfortunately. The road gradually rises the hamlet of La Fajolle (BPF stamp, for the gorge and the Col de Pradel 1679', 5ml further up the road on steeper gradients) The weather and the time of day meant we decided against the Col and returned to Quillan down through the gorges to Axat - a lovely road, hardly saw any cars.
20/9 Quillan to Font de Maury. Rain, heavy at times, cool then drier. 33mls
Road turning back on itself on way to Caudies
Heavy rain when we awoke. Had a wander around the town and a coffee waiting for an improvement. Left about 11:00hrs in a lull. Took the quiet D109 road on an easy wooded climb up to the Col de Louis 696' - some real heavy rain as we approached the top, went past some horse riders who looked like drowned rats - but then we probably looked the same! On the descent to Caudies the road does a unique double back on itself under a bridge - have not seen any other road quite like it. Dived into a restaurant at Caudies for some lunch to get out of the rain, not the day for a picnic! Lazed over some pizza until the rained eased off. Took the D20 minor road through the vinefields over the Col de Peralbe 418' to St Paul de Fenouillet and then the main road descending with a following wind to Maury. Intended to go over the Col de Maury but decided with the weather to stop in this valley - no hotel at Maury had to go 5mls further down the valley. Auberge de Font de Maury. Rooms 130frs. Very average meals at 75frs. Not recommended.
21/9 Font de Maury to Capendu. A sunny day at last, a threat of rain but it averted. 64mls
Retraced our route to Maury, into a strong headwind then an ascent over the Col de Maury 432' quite steep near the top, past the ruins of the Cathar Chateau de Queribus on the hilltop. Descent into Duilhac (BPF stamp for the Cathar ruins & a coffee stop), hotel here as well. Another major Cathar site high on the hill - the Chateau de Peyrepertuse. Looked a hard climb to get up there - gave it a miss. They look very impressive. Lovely quiet roads now amongst increasing scenic countryside to Soulatge and then over the Col de Redoulade 685' and a descent to Auriac for our lunch stop. More descending and then along wooded gorges - all lovely stuff this - to get to Lagrasse (BPF stamp for church & abbey ruins and the Gorges de l'Alsou). As it was sunny some beers were called for before we carried on along more gorges then over the hill to Capendu and the hotel we stopped at on the first night - worth it for the restaurant alone.
22/9 Capendu. Day ride into the hills to the north. 64mls.
Liked the hotel/restaurant so much so we stopped. A day ride to collect 2 BPF stamps.Quiet flat roads along the Aude valley and the Minervois wine region through hamlets of Marseillette, Trebes and to Conques-s-Orbiel. A lovely road now up the Orbiel valley to Lastours (BPF stamp for Chateaux in the area) a picturesque location, so we had a cafe stop. A short climb out on narrow roads and across higher ground and a few villages to get to Saissac (BPF stamp, chateau ruins and a panoramic view across the valley. A fast downhill then busier roads to get to Carcassone and a look around the old city part with its mediaeval fort. Although a bit touristy its very impressive. A flat ride back to Capendu.
23/9 Capendu to Narbonne. Very sunny & warm, cool wind at times. 56mls.
The last day. Minor roads across the Aude valley again, through the small villages of Puicheric, Azille, Pepieux and Cessaras. This is all Minervois and Corbieres wine country - everybody busy with the grape harvest, with that very distinctive grape smell in the air. Over the hill to Minervois, an old fortified village in a very picturesque location. BPF stamp for the village, natural tunnels and Cathar memorial. Had a pleasant lazy lunch stop in one of their restaurants and a wander around the village. Very warm now as we wandered down to Narbonne through the lanes to meet up with the coach for the evening departure back home. So a sunny day to start with and a sunny day to finish with but a right mixed bag in between! Village of Minervois
On the way to Narbonne
