A fortnights cycling tour in September 1995 with 2 friends starting and finishing in Narbonne, travelling into the Pyrenees with the intention of climbing some of the major cols and specifically the Col du Tourmalet and also collecting some more BPF stamps (see the section 'Across France' for more details on these). Unfortunately some bad weather (so not a lot of pictures, or any of quality worth seeing really!) meant a slight revision to the plans. September is generally considered to be a good time for weather in the Pyrenees but we drew the short straw this year. We used the Bolero cycling coach service to get down to Narbonne. Total distance covered approx 770mls. 09/9 Narbonne to Capdenac. A sunny and hot day. 40mls
The coach dropped us off on the outskirts of Narbonne about 10:30hrs. We rode into town first to get some food for lunch then took the N113 road out for a mile or so before turning off onto the quieter D613 west towards to Lagrasse. Lunch in the shade. We were unsure about the availability of hotels further on as there were fewer villages that way. Went north on flatter quiet roads through Fabrezan and Fontcouverte (cafe stop here) to Cadenac. Hotel did not open until 17:00hrs.
Hotel Le Bon Rouler: Good quiet rooms at 150frs. Excellent meal 75frs. Recommended stop - we returned here later in the holiday.
10/9 Capdenac to Virilhes. Cloudy start, sunnier & warmer later. 73mls
Pretty village of Mirepoix
Minor D57 south for a short climb over the Montagne d'Alaric, down through Montlaur and then the valley road and more minor roads through hamlets and the D110 climbing through forested area to the Col de Taurize 500' The hunting season had started - there were men with guns and dogs everywhere, kept hearing shots, hoping they weren't coming our way. Views a bit limited with the cloudy conditions. Long easy downhill to St Hillaire for a cafe stop and a BPF stamp(13thC church, 14thC cloisture). Climb out of St Hillaire, hotter now. Had lunch at the top. Descent then through busy Limoux then took the D620/626, a reasonably quiet undulating road through pleasant scenery for 20mls to Mirepoix,BPF stamp(fortified square with wooden houses) Valley ride before a short ascent and descent into Varilhes. First views of the Pyrenees. Hotel au Relais: Rooms 130frs(quiet ones at the back). Reasonable meal at 60frs.
11/9 Virilhes to Encasse les Thermes. Wet start & cloudy all day. 69mls
Rained most of the night. Left in rain on minor roads, short ascent to Pas du Portel 498' then 10ml down a lovely minor valley road to le Mas-d'Azil and a welcome cafe stop to warm up. BPF stamp(prehistorique grotto). Rain stopped as we rode through the impressive Grotte du Mas-d'Azil and followed the D119 to St Girons for our lunch stop. Had a chat to a French cyclotourist here. A lovely ride from St Girons along for 20mls to the Col Portet d'Aspet 1069' with only the last 1ml or so being steep, and in rain at this height, but luckily a cafe at the top. Met 2 english cyclists here on a weeks cycling break. Steep descent and a stop to look at the memorial to Fabio Castertelli, crashed and died here in the Tour de France a month ago. (There is a beautiful monument there now). Rode out of the rain into Aspet looking for a hotel, found a good one in the small village of Encausse les Thermes Hotel au Maronniers: Good rooms at 140frs & a good 4 course meal for 65frs. A quiet location
Fabio Castertelli monument
12/9 Encausse les Thermes to Bagneres de Bigorre. Rain, cloud & more rain. 45mls
Thunderstorms before we set off late, waiting for the rain to stop. Mist on the hills as we took minor roads to Brabazan and onto St Bertrand de-Comminges with a final short climb up to it. Cafe stop and BPF stamp(abbey, very impressive structure). More minor roads, onto St Laurent de Neste. Quite cold as we ate our lunch in a church doorway. Just like being in wet England as we carried on to La Barthe de Neste and Mauvezin for another cafe stop to warm up, and another BPF stamp(chateau,tower and panorama - but not much of one today!). Good downhill run then up and down minor roads via Bonnemazon, Castillon & Uzes to a final drop down, under heavy rain, into Bagneres de Bigorre. A bit of a miserable day, glad to finish.
Hotel des Cyclines: Room 180frs with w.c & shower.No restaurant, plenty in town.
13/9 Bagneres to Luchon. Cloudy, cool but dry. 42mls
Descent from Col d'Aspin
The intention was to go up the Col du Tourmalet today, but... got to Ste Marie de Campan, went into the cafe for our customary morning coffee and got talking to 2 english car people who had just come down from the Tourmalet - it was raining and sleeting up there. Plan revision required so instead we rode over the Col d'Aspin 1304' to Arreau for our lunch stop - easy ascent but a cold descent and limited views at the top. Then over the Col de Peyresourde 1569' - a harder climb for the last 10k or so. Weather a bit brighter now. Another cold descent, 2 cols in one day with baggage was enough. Luchon was a busy place, it is a major thermal centre, full of people seeking varous therapies. Hotel les Panoramic: Good quality place. Rooms without shower 180frs. Meal 80frs.
Lower slopes of Col de Peyresourde
Col de Peyresourde
14/9 Luchon to Superbagneres & back. Cloudy but dry. 22mls.
Decided on a 'rest' day. Had a late breakfast and a walk around town before leaving about 11:00hrs. 20k climb to Superbagneres ski station top at 1804' Reasonable gradients up the Vallee du Lys amongst good mountain scenery then increasingly steeper when the hairpins started, max of about 10% higher up. Had lunch in a brief spell of warm sunshine, the last we saw all day. Typical untidy ski station top but excellent views even with the misty weather. On the descent diverted off a side road for 1 mile to see the Cascade d'Enfer waterfall - cafe here, before returning to Luchon. A trip to the local bike shop was required to sort my troublesome bottom bracket out - took him until 20:00hrs and me 230frs to put a new one in.
15/9 Luchon to Seix. Cloudy, cool & dry. 70mls
A nice downhill run initially before turning off and a short rise over the Col des Ares 797' then onto the Col du Buret 599' and into Aspet for our cafe stop. Quiet D34 road amongst rolling hills over the Col de Larrieu 704' - good views. More minor roads to St Lizier and through St Girons and along the Arac valley and the Gorges du Ribaouto before turning off to Seix and a further 3mls up to the hotel standing on its own at the Pont de la Taule.
Auberge les Deux Rivieres: Room 130frs with shower on the landing. Excellent meal at 75frs.
16/9 Seix: a 2 col circuit on a cool, dry day with some sunshine. 44mls
Descent from Col de Latrape
Looking back down to Aulus from climb to Col d'Agnes
Final slopes of Col d'Agnesl
Liked the hotel, run by a dutch couple, so we decided to stop. Left about 09:00hrs on a very pleasant easy gradient up the Vallee d'Ustou with the mountains in front of us - lovely views. The road climbed for the last 5mls on a winding road amongst the trees to the Col de Latrape 1111' then a 3ml fast descent to Aulus les Bains in the valley for our cafe stop. A harder climb out of Aulus but the gradient eased off further on. Excellent mountain views. We had our lunch stop halfway up and the sun came out briefly. About a 6ml ride to the Col d'Agnes 1570' - a good col top. Short descent to Etang de Lers - cafe here then a 7ml descent on a picturesque narrow road down into Massat and another cafe stop. Valley roads back to the hotel. An excellent circuit!
