Trek Day 5
Kyanjuma to Dole 4040m
Wednesday 15th November 2006
This was where we branched away from the Everest Base
Camp trail and we immediately began a 2 hour climb to the Mong La.
(3972m) This was a shock to
the system and the party was very quiet as we struggled towards the
chorten on the ridge ahead. Then, phew, a respite as we dropped
slowly back down towards the Dudh Kosi river and a stop for tea,
followed by an easy walk until lunch.
I’ve decided that I’ll stick to soup for a while, solid food
has temporarily lost its appeal. I had tomato soup with Rara noodles, it was a big portion and the noodles would provide some carbs!
Me (in the hat) and yak
"Just one potato?"
Carole and Ama Dablam
We reached Dole where we were to spend the night.
The lodge was very poor, scruffy and dirty.
The worst we saw on the trek.
We went to our room and were shocked at its tiny size, like a
It held two pallets for us to lie on and there was an 18 inch
space between them. Only
one person could move at a time while the other sat on the pallet.
We had the end room of a long wide corridor, other
rooms being on the same side of the passage.
On the other side of the wide corridor were raised wooded boards
and it was on these that our sherpas, together with porters from other groups
staying at the lodge, would have to sleep. There would be no privacy or
comfort for them and it was already bitterly cold as there was a wide
open doorway right next to our door and already the
floor outside was white with frost. We were all going to be cold tonight.
At the other end of the long corridor was a toilet, not a pretty
sight, and steep stairs leading up to the dining room.
We joined our group as quickly as we could and
found to our irritation that the other bedrooms were normal sized, we had
just drawn the short straw. Another
small trekking group joined ours and we all huddled round the stove but
couldn’t get very warm. Eventually
more yak dung was added and we started to thaw out and as we did we
began to talk. The group was with Explore,
they told us that they were on their way back from Gokyo and had
lost three members. The
first had to be helicoptered down with altitude sickness and his
girlfriend had flown with him. The
third was a 65 year old woman who had been doing fine, showing no signs
of altitude sickness, then on the evening before the climb of Gokyo Ri
had become very depressed and emotional.
It had been impossible to reason with her and she had to be
walked straight back down with a sherpa.
Funny thing this altitude.
Funny thing this altitude.
I decided to continue with my soup diet and had
Sherpa stew which turned out to be thick with potatos and carrots,
followed by tinned fruit. Strange
combination but I just fancied the fruit, it slipped down well.
"With arms outstretched.."
Edmund Hillary Hospital