Giravaru, North Male Atoll, Maldives (by David Cumber)

I was based on the island of Giravaru on the North Male atoll. The Maldives is a 26 atoll chain consisting of 1200 islands. The Noth Male atoll, holds the island of Male where the airport is, and Giravaru is only 25 mins by speedboat from the airport. So a nice quick transfer after what can be a long flight. The accomadation and food were fine, and there were over 40 dives sites on offer by the dive operation on the island (very similar to the same set up on Medhufinolhu which I have visted before and you can find a review and more information on the maldives through the link. This is also on the North Male atoll but much further north). I must add that the dive operation was very professional and full of enthusiasm for diving. Generally, the water temperature is 28-29C. Visibilty was from 15 to 25M. I visited in March which is the best time to visit the Maldives.So to the dive sites I visited:

Giravaru House Reef

The house reef on the island, starts as a gentle slope that begins in two meters of water. The entry point to the site is from steps on the jetty on the east side of the island, to a bouy and descent line down to 12M. So no boat trip required. This dive site is used a lot for training dives, and the dive operation requests that the first dive you do with them is on this site, just to get you used to the conditions and your equipment. Not a bad idea really, and the dive operation is really accomadating on scheduling for house reef dives. The slope continues down from the descent line to a sandy bottom at 20+ meters. The slope is in reasonable condition, although the coral is as damaged as almost everywhere else in the indian ocean. There is signs of some of the hard corals coming back, but there are numerous anenomes with there anenome fish to generate interest. The slope does turn almost into a wall in places as you head to south east. Two small barges have been sunk on the reef, to provide a home for some of the reef life. A school of glass fish have made one of them home, together with some green moray eels, banded shrimps and some lionfish. There can be a current here and you have to be careful where you surface due to boat traffic, but you will allways have a dive guide with you to control this. The fish life is extensive, with hundreds of red tooth triggerfish hanging around, schools of fusiliers swimming around in the blue and some very large jacks again coming in from the blue. I also saw boxfish, flutemouths, bannerfish, morrish idols and numerous butterfly fish.

Giravaru Corner

Yellow soft coralOn the west side of the island reef, this slope is quite steep in places with two large overhangs which form two very open caves. One of the caves is huge; about 12-15M across, 5-6M deep and 10M high. I think you could spend a whole dive in this cave alone. There were tens of different soft corals, sea fans, sea whips. There was the most amazing luminous yellow soft coral. A large school of soldier fish were inside, with some spotted sweetlips, large clams and a couple of large wrasses. I also spotted quite a few varities of nudibranches. You need a really good torch and about 40 mins to really have a good look round this cave. The other cave is a lot smaller, although you can still swim into it. Both caves were around the 20M mark and vis was 15-20M. Along the slope there was clown triggerfish, fusiliers and jacks in the blue. We finished the dive by swimming up the side of the huge cave, and round the top, quite a view. This was a really good site, see the photos below.

Swimming out of the cave
Top of the cave

 

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Velassaru Caves

leaf fishThis dive site is actually on the South Male atoll, and is the first dive I had done on another atoll. A series of five caves, between 20-28M, all big enough to swim in and investigate. The caves have wall like fronts, with areas of broken slope in between. One of the caves has a large swim-through, which you can see in the photo. On the roofs of the walls was amazing bright blue soft corals, covering almost all the roof. The coral on the wall parts of the dive was in quite good condtion, but on the slope areas it was mostly dead and broken coral. The fish life was numerous with lionfish, clown trigger fish, spotted butterfly fish, emperor angelfish and various types of blennies. In the blue I saw a spotted eagle ray, but the best thing I spotted was a leaf fish, sitting quite openly on a hard coral. Fantastic. I spent a couple of mins swimming into a current to get a good look at it. The current was quite gentle, but still hard work to swim into. Like Giravaru corner a very good dive site.

Boduhiti Thila

BCave swim-throughefore I went on this dive, I believed it was a site I had dived before on a previous trip. But, this was not the case. It seems that Thila, the local word for sea mount, is used quite frequently on different sites. So this sea mount off the island of Boduhiti, could be one of many. It certainly was a lot better than the previous dive I had done on the site with the same name. The main reef was between 5-7M, with a large flat area, sloping down to a sandy bottom on all side at 20M. The top of the reef had a few interesting soft corals and the odd brain coral, but was mostly hard rock. So not the best site for coral, but I must have seen five different whitetip sharks and two hawksbill turtles (who were right next to each other). There were a few small bombies at the bottom of the reef, which had lionfish under the overhangs and I spotted a couple of lobsters. It was said that we may see mantas as we were only 10 mins from a site called Rasfari manta point. As we had arrived at the dive site we could see three mantas on the shallow reef, but before we could get in they were gone. Well I had to wait an hour on the dive before I got to see one under the water. We were cruising to our safety stop on the top of the reef, when my buddy grabbed hold of my fin and pointed behind me. As I looked round a 3M manta was swimming right by the side of us. He was so close I could have touched him, he cruised on by, we surfaced telling everyone else already on the boat, that we had seen a manta. Everyone was jealous for about 10 mins, because by then the boat had made the small trip to Rasfari manta point.

 

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Rasfari Manta Point

MantaWell some dive sites really live up to there name. We arrived to see 4 mantas on the shallow part of the reef. This area was one huge cleaning station. The mantas were forming an orderly queue around the top of the reef, taking there turns to swim in for a clean. This dive lasted an hour and we only went to 4M max, We just sat there and let the maginicant creatures swim round us. I believe at one point there may have been six mantas on the top of the reef. What can I say. I have some video footage on the video galley. The reef was generally bear otherwise. There was a group of surgeon fish feeding all around us, a couple of bright green soft corals and really cool red spotted blennies, popping out of the holes all over the reef. The vis wasn't as good in this shallow water, maybe 5-10M, so the mantas would be round us for a while, and then cruise off out of our view. We would just wait for them to come back. With the mantas, it was a great dive.

Black Coral Reef

This set of dives is the best I have done, in my limited experience of the maldives. I would say that this was the best dive site I have visited. Although, I had seen some cools things (i.e the leaf fish, mantas), this I feel was the best overall site. This site is based round an Island called Baros. A wall starting from 3-4M down to 20-25M, broken up with the odd bit of slope, this site was in excellent condtion. The wall was virbrant with colour, with hard and soft corals. The slope parts, that are obviously run off points, were less colourful but short in distance. I did not see any real signs of bleaching, and maybe the strong current that was running on the site while we were diving it helps flush any hot water away. On the descent on the wall we were surround by hundreds of bannerfish, a really awesome sight. We had some small tunas coming in from the blue and a napolean wrasse we came across a couple of times. A highlight of the dive was a very narrow vertical swim through of about 4M. It was very narrow, but our whole group got through it. I was one of the last, so the vis had dropped quite a lot as I went through, take a torch. The other highlight, was a massive gregorian fan is pristine condtion. About 2M across and pink, it was beautiful.

 

 

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