Panelled skirt directions
Panelled skirt in Jersey fabric
Panelled skirt in with contrast insets and circular ruffles

This page will calculate the measurements required for a simple A-line or gored skirt. The instructions are given here, and at the bottom of this page you can enter your numbers. You will then be given a diagram and the calculated values for your pattern.
Please be sure to leave room for fitting you skirt - every body is different, and these are generic instructions. You may need extra room at the front, or back, depending on your figure. For the best results, make the skirt up in a cheap fabric first, leaving lots of seam allowance, and make adjustments until you are completely happy with the fit.
Note: this page words best if using the FireFox browser.

For Flamenco:
The idea is to have the skirt be fitted at the waist, and flare out only
enough so the bottom part can be held in the hands while dancing.

A paneled (godet) design.

For a simple A-line, panelled skirt, measure your waist (i.e. the finished length of waistband required) your hips, and the distance between them. Ease will automatically be added to the hip measurement, depending on the hip depth. You also need the measurement for the finished length.
The skirt calculator is at the bottom of the page - this is what it does:

Divide waist and hip (plus ease) measurements by the number of panels

On the diagram below:
(a) is the finished length.
(b) is the extension of half the difference between the hip (plus ease) and waist measurement, divided by the number of panels.
(c) is the waist measurement, divided by the number of panels.

The pattern can be traced out on newsprint or pattern tracing paper (such as Burda produce). Note that not all the lines are needed for cutting out the material - some are only needed to draw out the design.

Start by drawing a rectangle (a) by (c). At each side of the bottom of this rectangle, draw a parallel line distance (b) away, and around 6"/15cm long. Using your measure, draw a line of length (a) from the top of the rectangle to where it crosses these parallel lines.

For a basic panelled skirt:

curve the bottom edge and add a hemming allowance (2"/5cm). Add a seam allowance (5/8", 1.5cm) at each side, and then curve the top edge inwards, towards the bottom of the skirt. Add seam allowance for the waistband taken from this curved line, of 5/8" (1.5cm).

It is now possible to work out what the width of the hem will be without any godet, and then adjust accordingly.

Something to remember is that a person's arm span (finger tip to finger tip when fully extended) is approximately equal to their height, so if I wanted to hold my skirt straight out to my sides, it would have to be over 10' (3.5m) in circumference at the hem! Now you don't need to do this, but you should get a feeling for where you want your arms to be when you hold up your skirt, and your minimum skirt hem is double the distance between your hands.

The calculator will tell you the hem length of the basic skirt. To add more to this, you start designing your godet.

In this diagram, (d) will be half the difference between the hip and waist measurements
(e) is the distance from waist to hips, and
(f) is the extension of the godet at the hem
(g) is the difference between the required length and the hip depth

As before, draw a parallel line a distance (f) away from the rectangle's edge. Pivoting your measure at the hip point, measure a distance (g) to hit these lines. Round off the hem, and add seam allowances, as for a basic panelled skirt, above.
Measurements in: Inches Centimetres
Required length
Number of panels
Waist measurement
Hip measurement
Depth from waist to hip
Desired width of hem, if known
Fabric width :
90cm/36in 112-5cm/45in 150cm/60in
Check if hip-skirt required
Add ease to hips

Circular ruffles calculator

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