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Cutting out will be explained first, then measuring. It is easiest to have fabric of sufficient width for the length required. The cutting diagrams assume this. The skirt is made of two semicircles, each cut on a fold. Firstly, the fabric must be folded so that one of the semicircles can be drawn across the fold, and the seam allowance taken from the selvedge: | ||
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Leaving a seam allowance at the selvedge (x) - 1.5cm (5/8") is usual - two measurements are made from the fold to the edge: the first (a) for the opening, and the second for the skirt length (b). Using a measure and pins or chalk, these two measurements are repeated from the inside of the seam allowance towards the open edge, as illustrated. | ||
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Try on the skirt, to gauge waist/hip ease. If the skirt is too large, tapir the side seams as required. If the skirt is too tight, trim a SMALL amount from the waist (no more than 2mm, 1/8" at a time). Cut a length of anorak elastic (5cm/2" in depth with a woven, non-elastic, edge) sufficient for the waist/hip requirement (usually the hip/waist measurement plus 2.5cm/1" seam allowance) and join it into a circle. Fold the joined elastic in half. With the non-elastic edge to the skirt, pin the join to one seam of the skirt and the mid-point to the other skirt seam. Pin evenly across the top of the skirt, and sew (use a zig-zag stitch if possible). Try on the skirt and mark hem. Trim to give a 2cm (1.5") hemming allowance. Take up hem. For a practice skirt in a man-made fibre, a 'candle hem' can be made. First test a small piece of the fabric in a flame - if it melts rather than burning, then this approach can be taken: cut skirt to the required length, then carefully feed the edge through the base of a candle flame to melt a millimetre or two. Practice first to get an even rhythm. | ||
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