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Postcards from Bali

Rawlyns Travels.....

Rawlyn is currently in Bali taking in the sunshine and the waves....
Read of his exploits and experiences of real surf!

14th Aug....

Just completrd this first leg of my trip to Bali. I am now sitting in the transit lounge of Kuala Lumpur airport waiting for the afternoon connection. According to stormsurf I should be arriving the same time as a 14 to 18 ft ocean swell.
I will keep in touch and perhaps you could use my Bali Diary on the club site. I took your advice regardig the comment you made on Tom's visit to Bali - What are we doing here?

17th Aug...

Fourth day and swell has been solid overhesd at kuta and much bigger on the reefs. It's staying off shore all day. In the main everyone is cool. Went to Perrenan this morning but tide was far to low [will be much better placed for dawn patrols next week] Off to dreamland and Uluwatu tomorrow - will keep in touch.

20th Aug.....

This place is madder than a mad place. I'm walking around with millions in my pocket that's worth only 25p.
Surfed Uluwatu the day before yesterday. Well overhead in the peak with only 25 out. What an experience.Frieght train city. [Simon surfed it with Sean who sends his regards]. Surfed a place called Green Ball this morning [a right]Well overhead. - Nice man sized manta ray wanted a chat. This place is apptly named as that was the colour of my testicles when I left the water.

23rd Aug

Swell had droped which meant that Tom, Roger and I have been surfing Green Ball Bay for the last few days. It's hard to believe that there was a large crowd surfing Uluwatu when the sets were only head high and we were with three others surfing well well overhead rights just around the corner. Green Ball is like crab with twice the power and shape. You try not to make mistakes. Roger took off on an outside peak that was awsome. I think it's a wave he wo'nt forget in a hurry. Tom was slashing aross the inside sections and hitting the lip with confidence and pulling off some impresive moves.
Swell picked up today. Took the outrigger canoe out to Kuta reef. It was'nt consistent with only the bigger sets giving longer rides. Very mellow compared to Green Ball.
New swell expected within the next 24 hors 12 -14 feet ocean swell. Want to go back and surf Uluwatu again.
Hope you have had some decent surf.
All for now from your man in Bali - Cheers Raw

26th Aug

POST CARD FROM BALI [last edition]
The last three days have been epic. On Sunday got to Uluwatu at high tide. It was clean and overhead. Roger, Tom and I walked down through the cave and paddled out.There were already 20 surfers out. Paddled to the main peak where we managed to pick off a couple of early waves, Tom was flying.

Then the tide dropped and the set waves started to get biggerr and bigger. By now there are over forty out and things are getting competative. Gary Elkrerton paddled out and took off on a set peak. - awsome wave. After twenty minutes I had my chance. Don't know how big it was - I just paddled - got to my feet - oh my God! I came off the bottom and the next thing I remember was an orange shirt drop in front of me. I had to straighten up. This was a whole new experience. I got pushed down the point over 100yds but managed to creep back out without to much damage. Pulled back over to the main peak and waited. Another chance - a peak loomed up and I paddled hard. Just couldnt get down the face. Turned around and there in front of me was my worst nightmare the wave behind was already throwing out. I took a deep breath and said a prayer. It felt like being hit by a steam roller - I surfaced in a mass of foaming water with my board still attached again being pushed down the point. Managed to clear the shoulders of a few waves and found some clear water.

It took me five minutes to compose myself and get my breath back. I thought to myself thiis was a good time to thank my lucky stars. Picked up a small [overhead] wave and headed for the cave. As I hit the cave an Aussie comes along side with blood pouring from his legs. I thought I had had a bad time. We shared a laugh and climbed the steps.

Tuesday is another day - Dreamland beach. Swell has picked up and waves are running from Uluatu through Impossibles , Bingin and into Ddreamland. Looks sizable but a super clean it's an A frame peak with an easy rip access. Paddle out and soon realize that is much bigger than it looks from the beach but only a dozen out. I won't bore you with the details but just to say in over 30 years surfing this was the stand out day. I asked Mike the Aussie how big he thought it was. Hhe said 8 to 10. I nodded. I thought to my self 'bulls...'These waves were big and perfect do,nt want to put a scale on it. Had four waves and then after such a pounding my leash broke when I was caught by a close out set. But here the reef is quite deep and after a five minute swim I crawled up the beach with a huge smile on my face.
Surfed it again today it was half the size - was able to relax an enjoy.

See you all soon! Cheers Rawlyn.