Land's End to John O'Groats.
June 15th 2002 - June 28th 2002.
Day 0 - Sat 15th June. 39 miles.
Set off from Sale at 8.20 and got to Land's End at about 4pm. Got
bikes set up and our driver, Geoff (or Saint Geoff as he should
be known for all his sterling efforts) took the obligatory
photo at Land's End signpost. Set off at 16.38 just as the
rain started. Our route took us up the A30 to Hayle and then
on the backroads to Peranporth. The road out of Porthtowan was
the first inkling of what was to come. I nearly gave up there
and then. By the time we got to Peranporth at 8pm we were like
the proverbial drowned rats. The youth hostel there was quite
comfortable.
Day 1 - Sun 16th June. 91 miles.
A bit of a setback right from the start. We couldn't get into
the Okehampton youth hostel so we had to do an extra 20 miles
to get to Steps Bridge near Dunsford. We set off at 8am and
decided to go straight up the A30 to save time and miles due
to the unforeseen extension. It was drizzle and fog all
morning. At the top of Bodmin Moor with the visibility down
to 50 yards and no hard shoulder, Roger had a puncture. A very
pleasant 20 mins was spent changing the tube in less than
wonderful conditions. After lunch in Launceston, we crossed
the border into Devon and said "Goodbye" to the Cornish hills.
If only we'd known what was to come. At Okehampton we had a
bit of a mix up. Roger went into the town I took the bypass.
When I realised Roger wasn't behind me I went back looking for
him thinking he had had another puncture. Voicemails and text
messages were going everywhere and getting nowhere and it was
an hour before we were re-united three miles down the road.
After this we discovered a peculiarity about Devon signposts.
The mileages used on them are curious in that they bear no
relation to the distance of the signed town or village. We
passed a sign "Dunsford 4", then "Dunsford 3" 500 yards later,
then "Dunsford 2" 3 miles later and then Dunsford itself 6
miles later still. At 6.20 we arrived totally exhausted. My
legs were more tired than a Des O'Connor joke. Our driver,
Geoff left us here to return home.
Day 2 - Mon 17th June. 62 miles.
New driver, Graham (or Saint Graham as he should be known, also Roger's brother)
joined us and brought with him a spare tent and sleeping bags as our next two
stops were also fully booked or closed so camping was to be the order of the
day. This was to be a short day so we had the luxury of setting off at 9am. The
most memorable thing about today was leaving Devon for Somerset. Leaving behind
the hills of Devon was one of the most pleasant experiences of my life. We
arrived at the campsite near Street quite early at 4.15 and gave the local
hostelry some of our business.
Day 3 - Tues 18th June. 79 miles.
We set off at 9.30 expecting this to be a fairly short and easy stage. It
wasn't. The climbs over the Mendips were horrible. At the top of one of the
climbs we found Graham chatting to a local man, Mr. Lake, getting directions
from him. Mr. Lake then donated £5 to my charity fund for Unicef. Thank you
very much Mr. Lake, you are a scholar and a gentleman! We went over the
Brunel suspension bridge into Clifton. The view was spectacular. The hills in
Clifton are something to behold, very unpleasant. We then slipped briefly into
Gloucestershire before crossing the Severn bridge and then made our way to the
campsite at Symonds Yat. If ever a place has been made more difficult to find
than this place then I'd be very surprised. Roger and I spent over an hour and
10 gruelling miles searching for this place on top of a mountain. We finally
found it at 7.40.
Day 4 - Wed 19th June. 58 miles.
We set off at 8.30 on what should have been a fairly easy and quite short stage.
The weather was cool with sunny spells and a calm breeze on our backs. There
were a few hills at the start but became mainly flat and should have been quite
easy. Our average speed for the day was 11.5mph which was incredibly slow for
the terrain and weather. Then I found out why! My back brake had been binding on
the wheel for the last two days and I'd assumed it was just my fatigue that was
making things so difficult. As if I wasn't tired enough already. That night we
were under canvas again and I was obviouly getting used to it as I had the best
night's sleep I've had in ages.
Day 5 - Thurs 20th June. 68 miles.
Today started cold and dry but warmed up as the day went on. It was a relatively
flat stage from Church Stretton to Warrington. We changed our route to go
straight up the A49 because Geoff was going to cycle down to meet us and cycle
with us for half a day. Having sorted out the problem with my bike overnight
(thanks Graham) it went like a dream today. The average speed was up to 14.1mph
which is a little more respectable. We met Geoff north of Whitchurch just after
we'd had lunch. Unfortunately Geoff hadn't had lunch so Roger and I were forced
to take another break in the pub. We were devastated by this turn of events but
bore it with fortitude. Just south of Warrington, I had my first (and only)
mechanical failure when one of my water bottle carriers broke. Geoff kindly
lent me his for the rest of the ride. At this point we also said 'Goodbye' to
our driver, Graham. Thanks for all your help Graham.
Day 6 - Fri 21st June. 78 miles.
My Mother and Grandmother were our new backup drivers for the next 3 days.
We also had a new rider with us for the first half of the day as another ADAS
wheeler, Peter Ward, joined us on the road. It was fairly cold and drizzly all
day with a slight tail wind but Peter kept up a blistering pace for us and we
turned in the fastest stage of the ride at 14.6mph. Riding through Warrington
was strange as the roads were the quietest I have ever seen them. I believe it
had something to do with the fact that England were playing Brazil in the World
Cup. Roger had planned to wear his Brazil shirt on the ride but I wouldn't have
fancied his chances of getting through Wigan alive if he had. We passed into
Lancashire and it felt nice seeing some familiar places. Peter left us just
south of Garstang and returned home. Moments later, Roger had his second
puncture of the ride. The rain was the main feature of the remainder of the
stage to Kendal where we arrived, once again, wet.
Day 7 - Sat 22nd June. 89 miles.
The day I had been dreading had arrived. Shap summit. As we climbed the nine
miles towards the summit, the drizzle turned to fog and then thick fog. The hill
itself was actually a lot easier than I had feared but by the time we got to the
top visibility was down to less than 20 yards. The journey down was considerably
better than the one going up! After Carlisle, we got onto the A7 where there were
some major road works causing 6 miles tailbacks for the traffic but not for
bikes. We probably overtook more than a thousand cars on that road. just after
the A7 we had the great psychological boost of crossing the border into Scotland.
We now felt as though we were making progress north. However, the winds were
swinging round to the west now and getting a little stronger. Just before Moffat
the heavens opened and we got drenched again. A boat would have been more
appropriate for our arrival in Moffat.
Day 8 - Sun 23rd June. 80 miles.
The route now swung north west towards Glasgow and then on to Loch Lomond.
Unfortunately, so did the wind so we had a brisk headwind for virtually the
whole day on this long stage. We climbed over Beattock summit which was quite
easy as it is very gradual rather than steep. Getting through Glasgow was very
quiet as it was Sunday, thankfully. Five miles from Balloch we got another,
predictable, drenching from a very heavy shower. With 80 miles of headwinds, this
was the hardest day so far and, I have to say, my enthusiasm was ebbing a little.
At Balloch youth hostel we were asked by the teachers of a large school party if
we could help them fix a couple of unicycles, which we did. It's not the kind of
thing you get asked very often.
Day 9 - Mon 24th June. 87 miles.
Another change of driver here. Helen, (Is this the face that launched a thousand
ships and burnt the topless towers of Ilium) or Roger's wife took over for the
rest of the ride. This stage was fun. Here I use the word fun in its archaic form
as defined by the Dunham dictionary of archaic usage: Fun, adj. That emotion felt
when one cycles into cold, horizontal rain whilst having ones colon removed with
a red-hot poker. In fact I would go so far as to say it was great fun. Despite
this, I was still able to raise a smile as we crossed into Argyll & Bute which
was the next landmark on our northward trek. The descent into Glencoe was notable
as we had to peddle downhill to get to 11mph because of the strong headwind. The
scenery was stunning though. By the time we got to Glencoe I was
close to hypothermia but two cups of hot coffee and a quick change into dry
clothes and shoes fortified me for the last 20 miles Glen Nevis. This made
yesterday seem like a party. I don't think I have ever felt so tired and aching
in all my life.
Day 10 - Tues 25th June. 77 miles.
This was like a rest day compared to the last two. Only 77 miles and a tail wind
for most of it going up the Great Glen. We had a few showers in the morning but
nothing heavy. We stopped just outside Spean Bridge at the Commando Memorial which
is usually a good vantage point for viewing Ben Nevis. Not today. At Drumnadrochit
we left Loch Ness and turned north and encountered what was probably the steepest
hill of the entire ride. Three quarters of a mile of 15%-20% slope very nearly
killed me but i made it! Never let it be said that Mrs. Suddick bred a duffer! It
was a wonderful ride down the other side too. The rest was quite easy to Strathpeffer.
Day 11 - Wed 26th June. 69 miles.
This was a mixed day. We changed our route to head for Helmsdale on the A9 rather
than go north towards Altnaharra because of the uncertainty of accommodation. A
strong tail wind made the morning very easy but it was marred by frequent showers.
I was also full of a cold by this time which made breathing more difficult. After
lunch in Dornoch we had more trouble with headwinds as we meandered north east. At
this point we passed our first mileage board with John O'Groats on it. A great boost
for morale.
Day 12 - Thurs 27th June. 55 miles.
This was meant to be an easy rest day before the victory ride into John O'Groats
tomorrow. We decided to go north over the moors to Melvich and then along the coast
to Thurso. The gradient over the moor is very gentle so it would be a very easy
but long climb and a long shallow descent. However, the wind decided to swing round
to the north and gust up to gale force. At one point I was blown to a complete
standstill and Roger nearly got blown off the road. Even the descent was like
riding uphill. When we turned east on the north coast road we got a little
assistance from the wind and another morale boost as we crossed into Caithness.
If it looks wild, wet and windy in the photo, it's because it was.
Day 13 - Fri 28th June. 28 miles.
The final day. It was bright, sunny and windy from the north west which made for
a very easy ride along the coast. We took a small detour up to Dunnet Head which
is the most northerly mainland point just for good measure and then rolled into
John O'Groats at about 11.30 to be met by our wives. We signed the end-to-end register
in the pub before dismantling the bikes for the journey home.
The ride taught me a lot about endurance and about myself. Looking back over the
two weeks and 958.1 miles I have already largely forgotten the pain and fatigue
I suffered due to the adverse weather but remember clearly all those great
moments. I cannot describe here the feelings I had as we passed the John O'Groats
marker on the A836. I hope I remember that feeling for a long time to come.
Thank you for taking the time to read this. Maybe it will encourage someone else
to have a go.