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The famous view of the Cuillin from Elgol - yes the weather was like this on our June meet.

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Fall Bay

Ascent of Worms Head

Worms Head

Rhossil Bay

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Gower meet report, Sept 24-26

Superb weather was enjoyed late in September by all on this new venue in the Gower Peninsular. The small private campsite is within walking distance of the best limestone cliffs in the area ie. Fall and Mewslade Bays. The BMC held a ‘Rockfest’ there earlier on this year and it was such a success it is on the calendar for 2011.

 This was more of an exploratory meet to discover the potential of the area which didn’t disappoint. On Friday John Steele, Andrew Hughes and myself walked to Rhossili and picked up the Gower Way footpath to the lifeboat station in very blustery conditions. We caught the ebb of the tide and then scrambled over the rocks and ascended Worm’s Head for a panoramic lunch on it’s summit. Although the skies were chrome blue the winds were strong enough to warrant being on all fours crossing some of the limestone bridges.

We then headed east to discover the impressive walls and tiers of the Fall Bay cliffs. The ‘Crag Rats’ and ‘Rock Jockeys’ in the club will be euphoric at what’s on offer here. Vertical walls, overhangs and cracks to delight in, with a sea panorama which stretches to the West Country with Lundy clearly visible. The tide was beginning to turn and after an anxious scramble over a rocky promontory we made it into the Mewslade Bay area and an escape route which ascended steeply to the cliff top coastal path. The geological rock formations viewed from the plateau are spectacular and the cliff tops are littered with evidence of ancient forts and battlements – this solitary walk is magical and inspiring and to be recommended.

 We were joined later on Friday evening by Pete Turner and made merry in  Andrew’s ‘Cathedral sized’ beer tent and early the following morning accompanied by Rod Kleckham and John Firmin.

 On saturday PT, RK and JF ventured out into another superb, crisp morning and repeated what we did the day before. Myself, JS and AH ascended the Rhossili Down, overlooking Rhossili Bay and on the ebb of the tide clambered up onto Burry Holmes island for another panoramic cliff top lunch. The whole sweep of the three miles of sandy bay below us, the surfers paradise of Wales, again breathtakingly beautiful and wild.

 After a cold night (-2°) we struck camp and went north to the remote, little visited Black Mountain, the western high ground of the Brecon Beacons. This is Andrew‘s stomping ground so he led the way over the peaks and plateau, even throwing in a bit of pot holing in for those small enough to enter and exit the ‘Hole’. Again a superb tour where we encountered not a soul and had the ‘Mountain’ to ourselves.

 Thanks to Pete Turner for making the long journey on 2 wheels from Cornwall, Andrew for erecting the ‘Cathedral’ and the day out on the Black Mountain, John Steele for his enthusiasm and archeological knowledge of Neolithic burial chambers, hill forts and historical sites in the area, John Firmin for the inspirational idea of exploring the Gower in the first place and Rod for supporting the meet and publicising the event with such zeal.

 The campsite is just a field with a couple of wooden benches/tables, the shower room capacious and toilet with hot and cold water kept spotlessly clean. For a family with young ’uns there are 2 shepherd cottages which can be rented out. The camping was exclusive to the JMCS and will be the next time we visit…


 

Skye meet:

Early climb in poor visibility to Bla Bheinn on Monday morning – we had the mountain to ourselves, then to Elgol to catch the boat to Coruisk. On the Tuesday a stiff ascent up to Gars-Bheinn then along ridge in overcast, changing conditions to Sgurr na Eag and down to the Bealach a Gharbn Choire and descent through An Garba-choire and back to the Memorial Hut. Our companions were Barbara Gibbons and John Steele on this 8 hour demanding romp. On the Wednesday a pleasant ascent up to the twin peaks of Sgurr na Stri in clear but very windy conditions. A descent from col down to Camasunary Bay to pick up the coastal path back to the hut via the Bad Step. Too hot on the Thursday to contemplate another big day so a tour around Coruisk via Coire-Usig with Rod, Mike and Ted - bird watching and skinny dipping (pictures censored!) was the order of this very hot day. The weather deteriorated on the Friday for our evacuation back to Elgol, so a fitting end to the 5 days on Skye.
Footnote: Dave Hughes wistfully observed the crag outside the hut for a couple of days and in a 'Eureka!' moment, recalled how he had put a route up there 50 years ago! We had to restrain the young tiger from repeating this bold ascent! Pictures of the youthful Treasurer as proof. 




 


Scottish Winter - Feb 2010

Dave Hughes reports:

The Old Farts gathered at the SMC Raeburn Hut on Sunday 21st Feb for their annual winterfest, regretting the loss of Mike Wainman due to family problems and Robin Watts who was sent to bed by his doctor. All arrived in bright sunshine by various means, and were joined in the hut by Charlie Orr, ex-editor of the SMC Journal and by Pat and Alasdair (SMC) who had come down from Inverness to investigate Craig Meggaidh.
 
Monday - Charlie went home, Pat and Alasdair went to Meggaidh, Steve and Roy skied on Cairngorm, Rod and Ted flogged up the Fara ridge, and David Hughes set off to investigate the new Edinburgh JMCS hut at Balgowan. All I can say from this point is that they all had a fab day except David who was halted by the urgent screeching of a warning in the car, which turned out to be a frozen water system, diagnosed and cured by the AA. Join now!!  The sad part was when I went to their garage in Kingussie for a check of the strength of the antifreeze and managed to run into a sleeper on the way in which did the valance no good at all and did no good for my blood pressure either. I shall continue to take the tablets.
 
Tuesday - It was cold !  Rod, Ted and Anthony went into Munro country west of Drumochter and returned with glowing noses and reports of Alpine conditions.  Steve and Roy skied on the Nevis Range, with interesting use of various old age (?) documents to keep the cost down.  It's sometimes quite difficult to appreciate that, bar one, we are all "pensioners". Pat and Alasdair went out in A's car because Pat's diesel had frozen - it was very cold.  The sun shone during the day, the diesel relented, and he moved the van. Since he was blocking me in this was handy !   
 
Wednesday - Pat and Al decamped in Pat's van for Glencoe and Lagangarbh, leaving A's car with us !!!!
The skiers were weary, since they had pushed themselves hard for two days. A check on the temperature showed -16.5C at 0800 hrs.  Now that is very cold !  And then it started to snow.
So everyone went out for a low level walk to look at a pretty waterfall, hoping to see frozen wonders, which they did, and got back to the hut mid-afternoon just as the snow was getting serious.  
 
 
Thursday - woke to blizzard conditions.  The water supply had been frozen for days and the path to the burn had to be dug out of the snow.  The road was clearly impassable by this time. We had what is known as a "festering" day, which tended to become a "what-if" scenario.  And the snow kept coming with a big easterly fan behind it. And in the midst of this maelstrom Alasdair appeared to retrieve his car !   What a fine fellow.  So we collectively surveyed the "what if" bit, and when the "authorities" would send a plough to clear the road. Since the radio said that the A9  and A86 were priority routes and were in trouble there was a "have we got enough food?"  And more snow now fell, and drifted, and cornices grew from the lee end of the building. 
 
Friday - we woke to more snow, with a lessening wind, and  prepared  a shopping list for the bold souls who were prepared to walk out to Laggan. And off they went, for bread, and booze ! The JMCS will not be a dry club.  With Alasdair in the lead they did the return trip in less than 4 hours and had speakings with the "snow-plough  man" on the way. The report was that their priority was to keep the A9 and A86 open and the rest would follow. A further chat with the "ploughman" suggested that he may, for a consideration,  have a look at our road. Shortly after the food patrol had returned and we were sorting out the "what next" bit Rod saw the flashing yellows about half a mile away and in no time the plough was at the cottage with a huge double blade at one end and a sweeper at the other. A fair piece of Highland kit.  At this point all those who were prepared to hunker down for the weekend packed up and went like rats up a shutter, leaving Rod and David to stay.  Rod had a flight ex Inverness on Sunday !  We watched the snow blowing across the road and decided to abandon.       We found a deal in Newtonmore, had a few pints and a good kip (and shower) and drove south. Rod got a train from Preston, and I soloed to Leeds
 
We have had some very good meets in the Scottish winter but this one was unique.

JOHN STEELE REPORTS:

For me it was somewhat of a nostalgic trip back to Scotland this winter, 45 years since Joe Della Porta took me on my first winter route in Glen Coe. As we drove down the valley, we passed the MR van with blue lights flashing - some chap had taken a short cut off the AONACH EAGACH ridge. This only a few days after a young lad had walked over the cornice on CREAG MEAGAIDH. It has been that sort of winter in Scotland this year.

Barbara and I set up base in Roy Bridge for week's hillwalking. Our first outing was a walk up to the pass of LAIRIG LEACACH to climb the Corbett, CRUACH INNSE, by its boulder strewn west rib. It had been so cold for the past week that a foot of unconsolidated snow (crystals) smothered the hills. We topped out overlooking the MEANACH bothy and on the way startled a bushy tailed dog fox and a large solo stag. The descent off the north east shoulder was tricky - a slope direction we will encounter again during the week.

Next day we drove round to Glen Nevis to traverse STOB BAN, one of my favourite Mamores. It was quite alpine like ascending the steep east ridge and descending the even steeper nne ridge where a rope was required, given the unstable snow conditions. A guided group was seen practicing in the 'winter corrie'
-not a place I would recommend this winter- it faces ne; (ask Andy Walker)!

Loch Laggan was a picture postcard, so we took in BEINN CHAORAINN and BEINN TEALACH (now promoted to a Munro) in a seven hour dash. Clouds could be seen on the horizon that evening. Sure enough the weather had broken by mid week and the high tops were out. So back to the Corbetts - the aptly named BEINN BHAN above Glen Loy was climbed into the face of a fierce ne gale. Just as two others were swept off the BUACHAILLE on descent.

Next day we could only manage a walk to the local store as the snow had set in with a vengance - up to one foot fell. Our last day was again a lower top above Loch Eil, but as the weather closed in we descended for lunch to be entertained by a friendly male otter as it showered in a nearby stream - a delight.

A superb week, requiring all the skills learned since Joe DP took the Steele brothers winter climbing way back in the mid 60's.