FRAME.
Sub-sections MAST, Support, Three-legged Mast, TOURNEY, Harness The simplest sort of frame is probably the
The attachment to the head needs to be very strong, very durable and very simple to use. Greater flexibility of expression can be obtained by articulating the head to nod fore and aft. One tried and tested method used a parallelogram formed by the pole, which is hinged to the base of the head, plus two jointed rods. When the rods were squeezed against the pole, the parallelogram lengthened and the beast looked upwards. Reversing the angle of the lower link produces the opposite effect. It is important that the head has an acceptable position when the mechanism is at rest, so attention must be given to the positioning of the pivots and the possible use of counterbalancing springs, It is probably better for the operator to make it look up rather than down - both if you can manage it. If the rods could be used independently, the head could be made to tilt
Other ways of carrying the head include:
Head mounted on a rucksack frame. If the head is rigidly fixed, the range of expression is very limited. It might he possible to mount the head on a one-dimensional pivot (nodding) or a universal joint giving the ability to turn, tilt and nod with great realism. Control would be the problem - perhaps two rods. It would have to return naturally to a neutral position.
A smallish head built around a safely or crash helmet. I have seen one in which the operator looked out through the open jaw which was opened and closed by a harness on his own jaw. This is close to being a complex mask, but being able to see in through the jaw rather spoilt the effect If the weight of the beast-head is to be born by that of the operator, it is vital that their centre of gravity coincide or severe neck-strain will result .
Back to top of section For mast animals some people favour a harness similar to that used by standard-bearers. This may be rather restrictive as one can get greater expression with complete freedom to move the pole about. However, when using a heavy head for a long time, a detachable harness would ease things.
The method which I have used with success has a handle projecting forward at right-angles to the mast such that the head is well positioned when the arm holding it is straight. This handle is strongly fixed using shelf brackets.
If the jaw is actuated by a string, hinge a flat strip of metal to lie along the top of the handle. The string connects to the outer end of the strip with a detachable clip. The jaw can now be worked by the thumb of the hand which supports the beast.
Back to top of section These pose special problems, of which I do not have first-hand experience, but here are a few points.
Skulls tend to be nose-heavy, so position the leg as far forward as possible. I am told that a socket well and strongly fibreglassed to the bone is a good method. The imbalance will tend to force the bottom of the leg backwards, so it will need a good rubber end, or perhaps the leg could be cranked forward.
It could be easier to have straps or cross-pieces on the pole so the operator did not have to support his weight by grip alone.
A method of support and operation used by a traditional team from North Elmsall, near Pontefract, is as follows. 'The pole had a forked top, sometimes and best made of iron with very thin extremities, which, driven into the lower jaw of the skull, held it securely. A piece of wood was fastened to the back of the skull, so as to enable the performer to open and shut the jaws at pleasure.' The head and upper jaw therefore lifted on opening.
Back to top of section Head attachment needs to be both strong and durable. If the head is to be demountable the fixings need to be simple and positive. Wing-nuts are ideal, especially if their bolts pass through open-ended slots rather than holes.
A very versatile animal uses a head with many special effects, made like a mast-beast on a short pole poked through a hole in the frame but independent of it. This allows great variety of movement
Balance. A tourney beast is obviously a lot easier to work with if the whole thing is balanced about the operator. Basic rules of mechanics apply, and the amount of counterweight required will he reduced by keeping the head light, getting it as close to the pivot (i.e. the operator) as possible and moving the counterweight away from him.
Thus the operator should be as far forward in the frame as possible, and it should project as far behind as is practical or necessary. The counterweight should be firmly and rigidly fixed. In my own beast, I got maximum advantage from the counterweight by making the rear member of my frame out of very heavy iron tube (which was therefore strong) and filling it with lead.
It should he remembered that:
· Gravity tries to bend the frame about the harness fixings. So do children
· The frame should be as light as possible
· It must not abrade or damage the cover, operator or the public
Obviously the method of construction will depend on the skills and materials available. Wood, wicker and sheet metal are all possibilities, but the best is probably tube, either steel or light alloy. This is light, strong and relatively easy to work. My own beast used tube from the hoops used to support the canvas top on a Land Rover. It is worth noting that frame-tents rot, leaving surplus frames, some of aluminium - a ready supply of 2- and 3-way joints and socketed tubes.
To bend thin-walled tubing without it kinking or breaking requires great care. The traditional method is to pack the tube tightly with sand, and this has been modernised by the use of special springs which are inserted into the tube before bending. There are also various hand-operated machines. Plumbers and electrical installers usually have tube-bending equipment which might also be for hire at D I Y suppliers.
If you are desperate, good bends can often be achieved by carefully working the tube round a large-diameter former or through a hole in a thick piece of wood. The success rate can be increased if there is a deep groove which is a good fit on the tube. It occurs to me that the head itself could act as the front cross-member of the frame if it had been designed with this in mind.
Much of the above would also apply to the Minehead/Padstow type of animal, which is carried on the shoulders. Because they tend to be much bigger, lightness could be even more important
TAILS Some tourney animals have had waggable tails. The mechanism need only be a simple pivot and a string. In some traditional customs people would try to pull out hairs 'for luck'. If you have a tail, people are going to pull it anyway and the traditional defence of sharp tacks would probably not be acceptable today. This would also be true of the vicious teeth possessed by some old animals reputedly to inflict painful bites.
Back to top of section Some animals are attached to the operator by a belt only. I suspect that it limits what one can do with the beast
Mine had shoulder straps, which should be strong and wide enough to carry the weight comfortably. I used car safety belts.
If there is enough room within the frame for it to swing forward and back a little on the shoulder straps, this can he used to give the impression that the man is really riding.
Points to consider are:
o It should he easy to get in and out of.
o Straps should not slip in action. They should be comfortable, and not restrict blood-flow, e.g. at the side of the neck.
o If you are going to wear ordinary clothes rather than specially-made ones, the straps should go underneath.
o Do you need adjustable straps to fit different operators?
o If someone is going to spend considerable active periods in the beast then it is worth any effort to get them as comfortable as possible.
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