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Constructing a Hobby Animal

COVERINGS

MAST ANIMALS.

Ideally the cover, 'cape' or 'hood' should be as long as it can he without tripping or discommoding the operator. traditionally the operator only has a small netting panel to look out of. This is very inhibiting as it not only limits his vision of events around him, but restricts his antics to those which do not blind him.

With some modern synthetic fabrics it is now possible to achieve TOTAL ALL- ROUND VISION in all but the poorest light. The same effect can be obtained with some open weave cloths, which can have a 'nap' and appear quite opaque.

IMPORTANCE OF THIS ABILITY CANNOT BE STRESSED TOO HIGHLY. It is difficult to appreciate the immense improvement unless you have had experience of both types, but the continued existence of netting windows is one justification for this booklet. You are enabled to see and exploit any situation around you. You can spot marauding kids who can be such a problem, or a toddler who is terrified and from whom you must keep away. You are less likely to walk into a small child or that bane of all mast beasts, the crutch-high bollard. It would also be much simpler and safer if you are required to get involved in the dancing.

One disadvantage with synthetics is that it gets unbelievably hot and sweaty inside, so some sort of ventilation and steam-vent is very desirable. A panel of net 4'(10cin) round the top of the cover will give ventilation, with an inner piece of cover fabric hanging inside to visually blank off the interior. When fitting net air-vents, it helps to position one where it can act as a window, for use in poor light which renders the cloth opaque.

With some heads, people can look inside through the mouth or vision panel. I believe it is important that the operator cannot be seen at all. Once while I was squatting to 'talk' to some children, one of them spotted me through my ventilator. His insistent "There's a Mister in there!" rather spoilt the moment but it shows that they had not thought of this before.

These lightweight fabrics are susceptible to any sort of strong breeze, which can be defeated by a heavy or weighted hem round the bottom of the skirt. Although you might wish to leave the question of weighting until you have tried it out it would be prudent to design in a hem large and stout enough to take weights should you want to use them.

There are a number of ways of weighting a hem which include individual sewn-on weights, a piece of suitable chain, or weights threaded or nipped onto a cord. The best is sold in curtain shops and consists of woven tube with bits of lead inside. Sold off a reel, it is available in at least three grades.

Another problem is that some synthetic fabrics are rather brittle and easily cut. Care must therefore be taken when packing etc. to protect them from contact with hard edges. This situation is greatly mitigated by having a readily removable cloth, which also allows easy washing.

Several means of attachment suggest themselves, but the best has to be Velcro. It is made in different weights - if you can find a supplier, or you could double up if one strip is insufficient. Do not economise on length. It grips very tightly, and will therefore need to be held strongly. Machine sewing is much the safest and needs overlapping by going round each end of the strip twice. If hand sewing is unavoidable, use a heavyweight thread and small stitches. Ordinary dressmaking thread hand-sewn will break as the Velcro is opened, but if it must be used, double thread might work. It is wise to strengthen the points to which it is sewn. A press-stud will ensure lateral location. Another advantage is that under ultimate strain - like someone treading on the cloth - the Velcro will part without damage to the cloth, although a child's vicious attack could reveal all.

There needs to be enough fabric for the operator to move freely inside. The sort of cloth which you are likely to buy is either 36"(90cm) or 45"(117cm) wide. Allow 3 pieces of 36" or 2 of 45" for the width of the hood. The fastening at the top will depend upon the nature of the head construction, but the fabric will need reducing by tapering the seams, and/or pleating or gathering the rest to fit the base of the head

Net can be dance-dress net, which is nylon and comes in a wide variety of colours. If you can't get an accurate colour-match, a darker would look less conspicuous than a lighter one.

When shopping for fabrics, try a market rather than department stores. The latter tend to carry only fashion materials, and have little choice of plain cloths which are often best for visual impact. Buy lavishly as you are dealing with a most imprecise 'garment' and to be short of cloth through economising is an unnecessary worry. Acquire extra cloth anyway for repairs.

The quantity of fabric will depend on the design of the head and how it is carried. An animal which bends down to eat money may find its hood getting under the operator's feet - though it is part of his skill to avoid that hazard. Unless one person is going to monopolise the beast, the cover should accommodate everyone except the side's man-mountain or their dwarf.

Man-mountain could still wear the beast though with the hood at hip level he might look a bit odd - especially with breeches and conspicuous socks. Two different-sized hoods are an option.

It might be useful to make up the hood giving plenty of length and fix it to the head in as temporary a manner as possible. Get the operator to wave it about etc. and then decide how long to make it by pinning up the hem whilst he has it on. Don't necessarily cut off all the extra cloth; if it is a lightweight synthetic, it will hang better for a heavier hem. The line of the hem bottom is unimportant unless it is a very conspicuous colour: people watch the head.

TOURNEY HORSES.

Cloths for these are quite different in concept A heavier fabric is needed to hang straight, although the weight of the beast and frame may be such that the cloth should not increase the load more than can be helped.

Furniture fabrics can he considered, if they are not going to need washing. They cost more than dress fabrics but, depending on the character of the beast, can be very rich and impressive. Many furnishing fabrics, especially curtainings, have a tendency to fray, so oversew all cut edges with a zig-zag stitch. Furnishing fabrics are usually 48" wide.

Fine detail can be added to light-coloured cloth by using 'fabric pens' which are reasonably colour-fast and permanent.

 

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