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Cabinet
The three 2440 x 1220 x 12mm M.D.F. boards were
cut to size at a DIY
store (Homebase). We were allowed 3 free cuts per sheet so the two side
panels were cut to match the maximum height 63.5" and depth 31"
of the cabinet (1610 x790mm). The remaining sheet was cut lengthways
into two 23" (580mm) wide strips to form what will be the front, back,
top and bottom panels. All of the rest of the cutting was done by
marking out in pen from the plans with a steel ruler and sawing with
hand saws.
A pad saw was used for the sides to cut out the
angle on screen area above the control panel and the rough edges
smoothed with a file. Some of the sawn edges are not cut at right
angles, for example around the marquee, and we used angled off cuts to
maintain the correct angle with the saw throughout the cut.
  We then cut the timber strips to length then
screwed and glued them to
the inside edges of the side panels leaving a gap of 12mm from the
edge. Next we attached the top and bottom panels, the back and the kick
panel. The coin door and control panel were cut to size and the control
panel screwed down but not glued for easy removal. Casters were pushed
into four holes drilled into the base.
We constructed a base for the monitor from a
panel strengthened with a
box frame made from timber that was glued and screwed into place. To
stop the monitor sliding out of the back we attached a wooden stop to
the sloping base.
Finally the visible M.D.F. sawn edges were
covered with the round
moulding glued and held in place with veneer pins.
Control
panel
We marked out the control panel and drilled the
holes using a flat 28mm
bit for the buttons. The 4-8 way joysticks required a rectangular hole
that we cut by drilling lots of adjacent holes around the perimeter
until the rectangle could be pushed out. Not pretty but it did the job.
We removed the microswitches from J-stick before fitting into the hole
after breaking a contact. (Thanks Andy Warne from Ultimarc for the free
replacement). The joysticks were held in place with japanned round
headed screws and the microswitches reattached underneath.
  The I-pac keyboard encoder was attached by
circuit board mounts to the
overturned control panel and wired up to the J-stick and button
microswitches with the supplied crimping tool. (Yes I know the
wiring's a mess)
  A single hinge was then cut to length and fitted
to the bottom of the
coin door and two roller catches added to either side. We then drilled
the holes and attached the start buttons and coin insert buttons to the
coin door.
The control panel then was finished with clear
polystyrene sheeting cut
to size and drilled using a 28mm flat bit for the buttons and
joysticks.
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