Waltham Abbey Historical Society

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SAINT NICHOLAS' CHAPEL


Saint Nicholas' Chapel, from the south east

Formerly the `cappela extra portas' (outer gatehouse chapel) of the Abbey, where visitors would say a quick prayer before imposing on the house's hospitality, Saint Nicholas' Chapel dates from about 1220, putting it in one of the last phases of the abbey's creation.

It is often described as the earliest (complete and unaltered) brick-built building in Britain, but is mainly made of flint rubble, with brick and tile openings and quoins, some of them with chamfers or mouldings. Their use in this chapel, especially in the mouldings of the eastern and western windows, is remarkable. These bricks are the famous Coggeshall bricks, considered to be the earliest post-Roman bricks made in these lands. See the page on Coggeshall Abbey for more on this subject.

Some claim that this structure was built to compete with Coggeshall's parish church, which the Abbey lost control over in 1223; in support of this, remains of a font were found inside during 19th century restoration. However, its layout is very simple, with no aisles, transepts or even a chancel. As such, it does more closely resemble a typical Cistercian gatehouse chapel.

 

FEATURES IN THE CHAPEL

The chapel measures 43 x 20 feet internally, with walls 3 feet thick, and was originally coated inside and out with plaster. Some of the southern lancet windows have higher sills, to make room internally for a credence, piscina and sedilia (a receptacle for the bread and wine, a washbasin, and a row of three benches), which are all inset into the south wall. They are lined with brick with a little stonework here and there, and were originally plastered. The credence (shown to the left in this sketch) has a limestone arch; perhaps the bread and wine demanded something a little better than mere brick to shelter it.

The chapel's interior was originally decorated in colour; faint traces visible in 1890 included the remains of a red-coloured cruciform design in the central sedile, an emerald green glaze on the string-course running round the entire chapel, and a gridwork of horizontal lines painted 5 inches apart above the string-course, in a chocolate brown colour, broken with vertical 'runners' so as to represent the mortar joints between fanciful stonework. The green string-course has been heavily restored.

 

THE CHAPEL AS A BARN

Curiously, the chapel survived the dissolution, intact but divorced from its former companions, much as the 'midnight chapel' or 'potato cellar' at Waltham Abbey (actually a slype, or connecting corridor) had also remained standing. The reason given at Coggeshall is that as the abbey was being destroyed, the chapel was in use as a barn. Its religious purpose thus erased, there was therefore no need to actually demolish it.

It does, however, seem a little strange that the abbey should have turned its welcoming chapel into a mere barn before the end of its days, whilst it was no doubt still struggling to avoid being closed down. Maybe the visitor numbers had dropped a bit.

Nevertheless, there is no doubt that it was a barn after the Dissolution, and remained a barn for over 300 years - as many years as it had spent being a chapel. Needless to say, it gradually declined into quaint disrepair, like Dickens' Aged P, yet strangely even in this dishevelled state it was sometimes mistaken for the remains of the Abbey itself - as this old print of 1833 shows.


The chapel as a barn, in an idyllic pastoral setting. Print dated 1833.

At some point after 1639, the chapel's roof, which is shown tiled in an estate map of that year (see the Coggeshall Abbey page), was replaced with thatch, and a midstrey (gabled porch) was added (see the print above). No doubt, the tiles had been purloined for re-use on some nearby grander building or other. At the same time, enough of the chapel's south wall, including its main doorway, was knocked out to allow the farmer's wagon to enter.

 

RESTORATION

In 1860, the Vicar of the parish church managed to buy the chapel and its plot of land, and restoration work was begun straight away. By 1863 the roof was re-thatched, the midstrey had been swept away, and the south wall had been repaired. A stone Perpendicular door was installed, seated upon the brick jambs of the original doorway (as shown in this photo).

One wonders whether more of the original arch would have been made of brick, especially considering the very sparing use of stone in the credence. Evidently, the wealth generated later by the wool trade had not yet been felt by the abbey at the time of this chapel's construction.

By 1890, the chapel was in need of further restoration. The thatched roof was replaced with tiles and the window surrounds restored with specially moulded bricks, hand-made to match the originals, and then the windows were glazed.

The chapel was re-dedicated and a curate appointed, and for a time St. Nicholas acted as a parish church for the villagers of Little Coggeshall - i.e. that part of Coggeshall which lies south of the River Blackwater.

In 1940, a bomb fell directly onto St. Peter-ad-Vincula in the town, destroying the nave roof, the north arcade, the roof of the north aisle, and most of the stained glass. Part of the tower was badly hit and it had to be demolished, though its bells were successfully rescued.

The chapel of St. Nicholas was then brought into service as a temporary parish church for the whole of the town, and remained so for many years. Repairs to St. Peter-ad-Vincula began in 1953 and took three years to complete. At its re-dedication in 1956, the chapel went back to its former status.

 

GUIDED TOUR:

Saint Nicholas' Chapel stands on the lane leading to Abbey Farm, and we will be dropping in to see it on our way there, after lunch. It is normally kept closed, though Eucharist is held there on the first Sunday of each month. The Vicar of St. Peter-ad-Vincula has kindly allowed us access, and Shirley Ratcliffe will speak briefly on the history of the chapel for us.

 

SOME EXTERNAL LINKS:

St. Nicholas' Chapel (SEAX archaeological overview)

St Nicholas' Chapel & Coggeshall Abbey (Museum website)

A History of Coggeshall (G F Beaumont, 1890) (downloadable e-book)
       - contains probably the fullest account of the chapel

A History of Coggeshall (Beaumont) - limited edition reprint

 

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Images:

All photos on this page © Copyright Lawrence Greenall / WAHS 2008.
Old print: Essex Record Office, ref. I/Mp 89/1/2 (described as "Coggeshall Abbey")
Interior sketch: A History of Coggeshall, G F Beaumont 1890, p.101 (detail)

 


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Copyright Waltham Abbey Historical Society, 2007.