Today I am on my bike.
I trundle down Broadway, stop at the lights. Hang a right at the Royal Oak – that’s where, six months ago, I met Luke Holland,
associate editor of Stink of Shoe Polish; three issues later and he wants me to have my own column. The view from here is of
gathering speed as I crest Beresford Road Bridge. I should concentrate on the road and the humps.
Fifteen humps later and I’m past the dilapidated ‘Ruperra’ and opposite the Maltings. At the junction to my left, the
New Splott Market. Those boys did well. They bought an old disused wood-yard, set up a market, made a success
of it, sold the land for mega money, moved to a larger site a stone’s throw away, and are still raking it in for all I know.
On the old market site is social housing and a Lidl’s. Everyone seems happy. At this rate the new National Stadium will
be built on time and the Rugby World Cup will be a great success. The sluice gates of the ‘barrage’ will be lowered and
around the great lake that it creates, the Millennium Centre will bring world class theatre to Cardiff on a monthly basis; the
Sports Village will become a reality; the Welsh Assembly will… no, that can’t become a success too; there would be nothing to moan about.
Before you know it, the humps are a distant memory and you are at the Magic Roundabout. The one with the traffic signs.
Public Art. This must be the gateway to the Bay and the Bay is a hump free zone.
I’m cycling down to the St. David’s Hotel and Spa to watch the Red Arrows fly past. Have you noticed how a five star hotel
can change things? Since it opened its doors a month ago, the St. David’s hotel has had a monopoly on Media events.
Starting with a Variety Club Ball launch, the Welsh Labour Party leadership announcement, Diana Mohdil and live budget
day links on BBC, annoying the locals with a post-midnight firework display and now those magnificent men in their flying machines.
Cardiff is changing very quickly. For industry read leisure, for old read new. The new Splott Market, the new Millennium Stadium,
the new St. David’s Hotel and Spa, the new Millennium Centre. Was there the same buzz almost a century ago when they built the
new Theatre? The only moment of civic pride that I’ve personally witnessed was Prince Charles, in his investiture year,
turning on the fountain opposite the City Hall. I was ten years old, perched on my father’s shoulders and my abiding memory
is of the collective groan from the massive crowd as Charlie flicked the switch and the Welsh feathers, recreated in water,
rose all of four feet before being dispersed on the wind. Civic pride was quickly replaced by sheepish embarrassment.
Thirty years on and the marketing machine is a much more sophisticated beast. Failure is not on the agenda and not an
option. I’m about to turn left at the Cardiff Bay Hotel with its new extension. The marketing machine here might be saying
we know that we are not quite five-star, but we are swish and close to the centre. And which centre would that be?
The centre of commerce or the Leisure centre? Even our local television channel HTV, has been sucked into the positive
spin game. Oh brave new world! In the first episode of ‘Company of Strangers’, where the NCM building doubles as the
Welsh Assembly, a character is drowned in a dock in the Bay. Impressive underwater photography of the corpse, the water
is crystal clear and not a sign of a submerged supermarket trolley or a dead dog anywhere.
All this newness and positivity can rub off. I arrive at the St. David’s Hotel and Spa in plenty of time for the display. I’ve only seen the
hotel from the Norwegian Church end of the Bay, and have always cursed it for dominating too much of the vista. Up close it is rather
impressive. No way of me getting inside of course, and I can’t ever see myself being able to afford to stay a night; blame it on the
pheromones induced by the bike ride, but today I am prepared to embrace the future, the trees outside the hotel are worth the
cycle ride alone. Believe me they are weird. Suddenly, Prince Charles and the fountain seem part of the old Cardiff, a brand spanking
hotel and the Red Arrows part of the new.
In a perfect world, the fly-past would have gone off like clockwork, but I got carried away and forgot that perhaps Cardiff is the same
as it has always been. The clouds descended, the drizzle soaked us to the skin and I got the feeling that George Bernard Shaw was
absolutely spot on when he described the Welsh as ‘Italians in the rain’. What was I thinking about? It is not buildings that make a city,
it is the people. Who cares if the Red Arrows were grounded? The view from here is of mudflats and I adore it. I’ll cycle back now and
tell Luke that I think I’ve got an angle for the column. It will be about people and their special place in Cardiff… and you can read it next month.