Care Guide - Breeding

Some people buy corn snakes thinking that they will be easy to breed and sell. They are relatively easy to breed, and are popular as pets, and many people will purchase from classifieds, as well as your local reptile shop.

However, please think about it carefully.. and consider two main questions.

  1. If your female corn snake experiences one of the problems that can happen during egg laying or pregnancy, such as egg binding, will you be able to and willing to pay the veterinary fees, which could be several hundred pounds, to save the snakes life?
  2. If you cannot sell the babies, do you have the time, space and money to house, look after and feed up to 30 hatchlings until they do sell?

If you cannot answer "yes" to both of the above questions, I personally do not think you should breed your snakes.

Snake condition

Your female corn snake should be over 300grams in weight and feeding well. Ideally she will be 3 years or older, although some females are ready from 2 years old. Many people follow the rule of 3 - 3 years, 3 foot, 300g in weight. Males can be younger, and their weight does not matter. However fertility increases after brumation and with age. You should not brumate a male corn snake if he is under 250g in weight.

Brumation

Brumation is not absolutely necessary for breeding - in fact some breeders do not cool their animals at all. It is however proven to increase fertility rates. Both males and females can brumate, but fertility increase is more important in the males for sperm count.

If you are going to brumate your snake, you must be careful to monitor the temperatures exactly, and be very strict regarding feeding before brumating. Your snake would ideally be at least 300g, although some breeders recommend 250g, before brumating.

September & October -  ensure that your corn snake is adequately eating. You can increase the size of the food or frequency slightly to help add some additional weight before brumation.

November - feed in the first 2 weeks only, cease feeding for the following 2 weeks. All food should then be fully digested and passed before temperatures are lowered.

December - reduce the temperatures gradually over the first 2 weeks of December until the temperature is at approximately 12-14 degrees C. If you use a light source, reduce the light hours until only 6-8 hours of light remain. 

January - maintain at 12-14 degrees C. Have fresh water available, and check frequently. Snakes will still be awake, but cold to the touch and lethargic during this period of time. They will still drink water from time to time.

February - maintain as above for first 2 weeks of February. This has now ensured 8 weeks of brumation, and 10 weeks without food. Some breeders prefer 12 weeks of brumation, I have found 8-10 weeks adequate. In the second half of February, slowly raise the temperatures back up again.

March - by this time the temperatures should be back to optimum. Light hours should be back to 10-12 hours a day. Start feeding regime. An increased feeding regime similar to that of before brumation will help weight gain. During this feeding time I use a calcium powder or calcium injection on the mice of the female snakes. This helps to combat any egg laying problems due to calcium deficiency.

April/May - this is the earliest time I would consider introducing 2 corn snakes. You can leave it as late as June to do so, if you feel your snake needs more weight to be added.

Egg Laying

The female will need an egg box in which to lay her eggs. Failure to provide one could result in egg binding. The egg box should be a container that is kept humid, and filled with damp moss. Any container such as a tupperware tub that the snake can fit into is fine. Cut a hole in the lid for entry/exit and spray daily to keep damp.

Eggs are laid approximately 50-60 days after mating.

Incubation

An incubator can be a home made chamber which maintains the humidity and temperature at the correct levels. As I do not use a professional incubator I cannot comment on it's use.

I personally use a fish tank, filled 1/3rd with water, and with a submergeable water heater, set to . In this float a tupperware tub, half filled with vermiculate, in which the eggs are half buried. The tupperware tub has airholes in the lid. I use a digital thermometer/hygrometer reader with the probe inserted through a hole in the tupperware containers lid.

Incubation should be at a temperature of 84-86F and it will take approximately 5-6 weeks for your eggs to hatch!

Care Information

Please select which section you would like to navigate to.

Introduction
Housing
Heating
Handling
Feeding
Health
Breeding

Incubator Guide
Egg Binding
Housing Together

If you are thinking about purchasing a corn snake, and require a setup, please visit Reptile Cymru in Cardiff, who sell plastic starter kits from £30, and full setups for adults in 3 foot wooden vivariums from £125 (including heating/lighting).