Backgrounds and Islands

The methods described here can be used to construct backgrounds for dendrobatid vivariums and also to make floating islands for semi-aquatic amphibians such as newts. You don't have to have a background in a vivarium, but to make the animals feel secure you do need to cover the back and side glass.

FWIW, I don't use internal backgrounds in my tanks. I paint the outside of the glass (usually black) or use external printed backgrounds. I lean pieces of vine root and corkbark against the glass to allow the animals (and plants) to climb, and grow bromeliads on corkbark plaques. Take a look at the pictures of my vivaria on this site and make your own decisions!

Corkbark

Take a suitably-sized pieces of corkbark. Wash them well, pour boiling water over them and soak to remove as much of the tannin which leaches out of corkbark as possible. One floating island! Even better: cover the corkbark with some Java or Sphagnum moss. Even better: take two pieces of corkbark, place the slightly smaller, more curved piece on top of the larger, flatter piece - island with a cave which will make the animals feel secure!

To make a background, you need flat pieces of corkbark which you can attach to the glass with silicone aquarium sealant. Don't leave any gaps behind the background in which frogs can get trapped. This process is tedious and costs a fair amount for a large viv, but does produce a nice looking background with a fairly long life.

You can also buy sheets of corkbark attached to a hardboard-like backing sheet. These are flat and easy to silicone to the glass, but are quite expensive and have a limited life (several years). Once again it is essential to make sure they are firmly attached to the glass with no spaces behind.

Foam

Carve thick sheets of expanded polystyrene (Styrofoam) to an attractive shape which fits your vivarium (Hint: a small gas blowtorch and an old knife are very useful here, but don't set fire to the polystyrene or do this indoors!!!). You can then either finish off the background as described below and then silicone it into the vivarium, or silicone it in place and then cover it. The polystyrene method also makes good floating islands for newts.

Alternatively, you can use expanding polyurethane foam (from home improvement stores) to make a sculpted background. You can either do this in place in the vivarium (lay the vivarium down so the back is on the floor), or shape the foam in an external mold and then silicone it in place later.

WARNINGS:

• Wear gloves - you can't get this stuff off your hands easily.
• Work in a well ventilated space away from your amphibians.
• Don't do this on your antique furniture, and cover the carpets with newspaper or plastic!

Leave the foam to cure for at least 24 hours before you try to do anything to it, longer (up to a week) for thicker layers (>1 inch).

PVA coating

Get some waterproof exterior-grade PVA (polyvinyl acetate) from a home improvement store. Dilute a quantity of the adhesive with water 50:50. Mix some sort of dry fibrous material such as peat, coconut fibre, coir, or composted bark into the diluted adhesive until you have a paste you can work with. Use this to coat the foam base.

This is a messy business. Wear disposable gloves and be prepared to throw whatever you mix the stuff in away afterwards. Allow the glue to cure and dry completely. This takes some time, up to a week - don't rush it.

When everything is throughly dry, wash it thoroughly (outside with a gently running hose is easiest). You attach plants directly to this background, or you can form planting pockets (with drainage!) as you shape the background.

The lifespan of this type of background is not clear, but done properly (the key is to make sure everything is completely dry at each stage before going on to the next), they last a number of years. Ultimately, they will need to be replaced or recoated.