Stages/Mileage'sWye Valley Walk (1999)
The Wye Valley Walk follows the river for 111 miles from Rhayader, high in the Welsh hills, to it's junction with the Severn at Chepstow, taking the walker past some marvellous scenery, including the magnificent woods which line the gorge through which the river flows in it's lower reaches. The walk also passes many sites of historical and literary interest such as Goodrich and Monmouth castles, Tintern Abbey and Clyro.
Stages/Mileage's
1. Rhayader to Builth Wells 15.5miles
2. Builth Wells to Llanstephan Bridge 9 miles
3. Llanstephan Bridge to Hay-on-Wye 11 miles
4. Hay-on-Wye to Hereford 25 miles
5. Hereford to Ross-on-Wye 16 miles
6. Ross-on-Wye to Monmouth 17 miles
7. Monmouth to Chepstow 17 miles
Distance: 111 miles (well waymarked)
Recommended Guidebook: The Wye Valley Walk by Anthony Burton (Aurum Press)
An official guidebook, produced by the tourist information service and local councils is available from Chepstow tourist information (tel. 01291 623772). A 'free' accommodation guide is also available, but only if you purchase the guidebook at £3.75!
OS Maps: Landranger 147, 148, 149, 161 & 162
1. Rhayader to Builth Wells 15.5miles
A pleasant section from the market town of Rhayader using the Mid-Wales railway initially, before crossing the river Elan and climbing to give wonderful views back over the route. On the descent into Llanwrthwl we saw a pair of Red Kites from very close range. From here the path rises to take the bridlepath along the top of the wooded Wye valley for several miles before arriving at Newbridge-on-Wye. From Newbridge the path wanders down to the Wye and follows it all the way into Builth. Here it becomes obvious just how important the fishing rights on the Wye are. Even the wooden benches by the Wye on this stretch are marked 'PRIVATE' and signs warn the walker to 'KEEP MOVING'. Walkers seeking accommodation in Builth would be advised not to frequent a Bed & Breakfast named 'Quierda' as baths are not allowed, towels are not provided and there is no cooked breakfast!
2. Builth Wells to Llanstephan Bridge 9 miles
This is a comparatively short leg, but we walked on to Boughrood (an extra 2 miles). The path leaves Builth via the castle mound and the Newry Road to climb up through the heather moorland with great views down into the Wye valley. The path then descends by road and track to Erwood Bridge over the Wye and to the Erwood station picnic site. From here the way to Llanstephan bridge follows the course of the old railway line (now a road) through woodland, which has a brief diversion down to the valley floor that we completely missed as the sign was hidden in the undergrowth. At Llanstephan Bridge an old mill has been converted into a very welcome tearoom and vegetarian B&B (the reason we carried on down the riverside path to stay at Boughrood).
3. Llanstephan Bridge (Boughrood) to Hay-on-Wye 11 (9) miles
There is very little to say about this section except that it is a walk along the river to Hay via Glasbury. Two walks along the grassy verge of the busy A438 that accompanies this route most of the way into Hay make it very forgettable. The excellent service at the Belmont House B&B and a cream tea at the Granary restaurant made our stay in Hay very comfortable. Hay is an interesting town with plenty to see and do, the riverside walk being particularly good.
4. Hay-on-Wye to Hereford 25 miles
With a little more planning, it is possible to avoid this 25 mile slog by walking through Hay the previous day and making for the B&B's at Middlewood or Bredwardine. We actually preferred to stop in Hay and recuperate before the next day's onslaught (only because it hadn't occurred to me before the walk).
The path out of Hay climbs and descends for several miles through the attractive Herefordshire countryside. Special care must be taken not to lose the path at the Summerhill golf course. The river is followed briefly before the long climb up Merbach Hill begins. The climb is rewarding as the views of the Wye valley are tremendous, but to truly reach the top of the hill a short diversion to the right should be taken to reach the trig. point. From here the path descends steeply to the pub at Bredwardine.
Me on Merbach Hill
After a short road walk, the path arrives at The Scar; a woodland beauty spot overlooking the Wye. Unfortunately access to this area is seasonal and we had to walk along the outside of the wood. The next part of the walk passes the lovely buildings at Monnington through miles of orchards. We were there in season but the apples weren't worth scrumping as they were for cider and taste very bitter. The path now follows miles of road in an attempt to avoid the A438 into Hereford, which it crosses to follow the river into Hereford for the last few miles. This stretch seems to go on forever before the walker suddenly appears in the centre of Hereford.
5. Hereford to Ross-on-Wye 16 miles
From Hereford, the path leaves the city past the sewage works following the riverbank briefly before taking a disused railway line to the attractive village of Mordiford. From here several miles of pleasant woodland walking lie ahead before the river is once again reached and followed past the Hole-in-the-Wall holiday centre and the Foy suspension bridge. Ross is reached by following the river under the road bridge into the riverside park and thus into town.
6. Ross-on-Wye to Monmouth 17 miles
Leaving Ross past an industrial estate was a grim business on the rainy morning that we left but as the rain stopped, we ascended through what is to become a large part of the future walk; well established deciduous woodland. The path climbs and descends through woodland until it meets the road (and pub) at Kerne Bridge. From here Goodrich Castle can be seen, but the way crosses the river and follows it for the rest of the distance into Monmouth. At Symonds Yat we chose to climb Yat Rock rather than follow the river around the hill. The climb/scramble is rewarded by wonderful views of the Wye valley at one of its best points. The nest of a Peregrine Falcon in the cliffs can be seen from here with the help of the RSPB. The path descends to the Saracens Head pub and the hand-operated ferry at Symonds Yat East before following the Wye once again along a disused railway line. The riverbank takes the walker into Monmouth alongside the noisy A40 to the road bridge over the Wye.
The Wye from Yat Rock
7. Monmouth to Chepstow 17 miles
The path from Monmouth follows the river, crossing it over a disused railway bridge at Redbrook and following the old line for some time. Climbing steeply, the way now heads away from the Wye into several miles of wonderful forest walking before descending to reach the old railway line once again at Tintern Station. Here there is now a café in the old station building that serves a variety of home-cooked meals. The way continues along the road through Tintern towards its ruined Cistercian Abbey before climbing slowly at first behind the main hotel. The path becomes very steep, scrambling is necessary in places, and continues for miles through dense woodland. The climb is rewarded by the most spectacular view of Chepstow, the Severn Valley and both Severn Bridges from a viewpoint aptly named the Eagle's Nest and is a wonderful end to the walk. Chepstow is reached after descending through forest to the road, past the racecourse and around the river to the castle. So ends the Wye Valley Way.
Acknowledgements
Thank you to Colin & Sally Dymott for all your hospitality and for helping to make the Wye Valley Walk such an enjoyable one.
