Janet Stevens wrote this diary during the 3 weeks self drive holiday.  We hope you find something interesting about the many places we stayed in.  She mentions all the Motels, Hotels, and even log cabins that we stopped over in.  They were all pretty good!  Now read on...

THE BECKS & STEVENS HEAD WEST TO U.S.A

Sunday 25 May – Monday 16 June 2003

 Day 1: Sunday 25 May - Gatwick to Salt Lake City (Utah)

A beautiful sunny day!  Tony-the-Taxi collected us at 7.30 am, we then went on to pick up Bill & Phyl from Roedale Rd.  Arrived in good time at Gatwick & checked in.  Breakfast at Garfunkels.

Uneventful flight on first leg of our journey to Cincinnatti (8 hrs 30 mins) with only 1 hour to pick up our luggage and transfer to the flight to take us on to Salt Lake City (just over 3 hr flight) flying over some snowy mountains (not sure what they were!). 

Arriving in Salt Lake City at approx 6.00 pm local time it was hot & humid (85^oF).  We collected our vehicle - Trailblazer ‘people carrier’.  Very comfortable and it had a CD player.  Great news – particularly as Ada had prepared several CDs of our favourite ‘driving’ music (compiled by each of us).  If it didn’t have a CD player we were going to ask for another vehicle! 

Feeling travel weary we set off for our overnight stay at Logan, Utah (Best Western, Weston Inn). Shortly after setting off we realised the interior lights were still on indicating that ‘something’ wasn’t closed properly.  After checking all doors and consulting the car manual we discovered that the rear window was partially open.  Problem solved, we moved on and arrived in Logan at nearly 8.00 pm.  At the Best Western, the reception was closed with a sign up saying ‘back in 10 minutes’.  So we hung around for a while and waited, and waited, until a nice girl turned up and told us that she had been dealing with a child who had somehow got himself locked in the bathroom of one of the chalets!  She looked a bit flustered as she was the only receptionist on duty, and one or two other people had turned up while we were waiting and had decided to move on as there was no one about to check them in. 

The Weston Inn had an indoor swimming pool which looked inviting, but we decided not to venture in.  Chalets were clean & comfortable, each with 2 queen sized double beds & of course en suite bathroom with coffee making machine.  After a short recovery period we set off for the nearby Burger King – we do not intend to live on fast food this holiday, but it was an easy option as restaurants were situated further into town.  Too far to walk and we didn’t want to drive.  After 16 hour journey we all needed a good sleep, so returned to the chalet & went to bed at 9.45 pm.  This already feels like Monday.

Day 2: Monday 26 May – Logan to Grand Tetons National Park (approx 82^oF)

After a light breakfast (coffee & cereal) we returned to the chalet to collect our things and met a guy hanging over the balcony who was very friendly, and said his father came from Scotland.  We hit the road at 7.00 am.  A hot dry week is forecast for this area.  We headed north and turned east to go through Logan Canyon, on to Bear Lake, Garden City, over Beaver mountain en route to Jackson. We stopped for brunch and picked up 2 large backs of beers to take with us to the next stop on our journey. 

60 miles north of Jackson town is Jackson Lake Lodge and we arrived there at lunchtime.  Bill & Phyl had suggested we might like to look at the Lodge as they had visited before.  Great views of the Grand Tetons and the mountain range– still quite a bit of snow, but later in the afternoon ominous clouds appeared.  At the Lodge we went through and looked out over the valley to try & spot some moose that might be grazing.  We were in luck, but they were far away.  A few spots of rain fell and we returned to the car to drive on to Colter Bay Village (10 mins drive north) where we checked-in (surprised to find that they had a computer with full online facilities!). 

The sky cleared & the sun reappeared. We found our cabins and settled in while Bill & Phyl went off for a stroll through the village down to the shop & found the restaurant.  The ice machine was just up the hill so we filled up the ice bucket and put some beers on ice in the cabin (no fridge, TV or radio in the room, just a bed, table & bathroom – pretty basic but comfortable).  Ada wished he had brought his radio with him.  At 5.00 pm we sat outside and watched the chipmunks playing tag, running up the trees, across the top of the cabin & down the other side, then back along the front porch & across the road, and back again for another circuit.  We picked up sandwiches & cooked sausage plus chilli bean soup from the store down the road.  The sandwiches were disappointing, the filling was okay but the bread contained caraway seeds which gave it a strange aniseed flavour – not nice!  The chipmunks were still very active, so we put the chairs outside and had the food with a few beers! 

The peace & quiet was broken when two families with 6 young kids & dog arrived opposite!  I decided to give Ada one of his birthday presents: filters for his new camera which I thought would be useful for the next day. As I hadn’t marked the presents, I gave him a talking pedometer by mistake, so I went and got the ‘right’ parcel! The pedometer was a great success, and ‘she’ was later nick-named ‘Doris’. By 9.45 pm it was dark, the sky had cleared, the stars were appearing & the mosquitoes had arrived and feasted on our presence!

Day 3: Tuesday 27 May – Colter Bay Village, Grand Tetons National Park (very hot, 85^oF)

6.30 am – A clear blue sky!  We had heard the chipmunks running about on the roof during the night but had slept well.  At 7.00 am we walked down to the Marina (about 10 mins away).  The lake was crystal clear with perfect reflections of the boats and the snow capped mountains.  At 7.30 am the mini bus arrived and took us on the 5 mile journey south to Jackson Lodge where we had a splendid breakfast before setting off at 8.30 am to walk from Jackson Lodge back to Colter Bay. 

Very quiet & peaceful – not many people - ‘good viewing opportunities’ and we saw several birds (including woodpeckers), a pair of sandhill cranes that took off & flew up the valley making a helluva racket!  Also saw a beaver swimming to & from his lodge, moose, bear tracks in the muddy pathway, a huge ant hill that was teaming with large black ants (urgh!). Two  shire horses pulling a trailer also passed us, plus a further 6 horses crossing the bridge over the river.  As Bill was in front for most of the walk he saw an elk up ahead, but the rest of us missed it!  The sun was getting pretty intense and we were glad to have the water with us as there was little shade. 

Eventually we reached the corral where approx 30 horses were kept – they were beautiful and well cared after.  Back at Colter Bay we decided that we deserved a rest, so bought some ice cream from the store.  I later decided that this was the best ice cream of the whole holiday as elsewhere it didn’t seem to have much flavour!  We also bought some ‘Spunkmeyer’ danish pastries (strange name, obviously done for marketing purposes, as later we found some similar pastries made by ‘Svenhardt’ – and of course Ada had to capture this on film!  With a further supply of beers for the evening, we returned to the cabin for a short rest. 

At about 1.00 pm we set off to drive to Jackson (45 miles approx) passing Jenny Lake and Mount Moran on the way.  In Jackson we parked up and explored the town a little, mainly looking for a chemist (Drug Store) for some anti-mosquito stuff and mouth wash etc. After asking in a local shop it transpired that the nearest one was a few miles down the road (odd for such a large town).  We decided to spend a bit of time in the town & saw the arches made of antlers.  Phyl & I did the gallery shop (Bad boys polar bear picture) and also bought T-shirts, socks & ear rings.  Back at Colter Bay by 5.15 and went to the visitor centre for some info on the area but we gave up waiting as a certain Indian gentleman spent at least half an hour quizzing the receptionist for info (“How long is the 16 mile float?” he asked!!).  At 7.00 pm we went to the Chuckwagon restaurant in the village for supper – very expensive: steak, fish & pasta. At 9.30 pm we turned in for the night, not least because the mosquitoes were once again prolific and the anti-mosquito spray seemed to have little effect on keeping them away!

Day 4: Weds 28 May – Colter Bay Village, Grand Tetons National Park (very hot again!)

Being so far away from civilisation the nights are very quiet except for the sounds of wildlife.  Up at 7.00 am – today we are off to Jenny Lake situated at the base of the mountain range in the Teton Park, left at 8.00 am and reached the Jackson dam. 

The lake was clear and completely still with fabulous mountain reflections in the water. Morning is the best light to get the full effect.  The video battery was flashing and we forgot to take a new one with us!  Ada said he had also forgotten to bring his digital camera, so we returned to the cabin to get them.  After a frantic search for the new battery at the cabin Ada eventually found it in his camera bag that he had with him all the time!  Set off again and after a few photo stops we arrived at Jenny Lake at 9.00 am and began the walk (approx 3.5 miles) to the other side of the lake.  On the way we stopped & watched a bald eagle gliding high over the lake, further on we encountered snow and hoary marmots frolicking about over the rocks on the mountain side, and pretty blue butterflies dancing in front of us.  

We continued climbing up to Inspiration Point, a great view overlooking the lake and then on to Hidden Falls, the latter being a little tricky to get to due to the large snow drift. I ventured on with the video camera and the others stayed behind.  Got some great shots, well worth the effort.  More & more people had arrived by the time we made our way back down the gorge (easier going downhill!) to the boat dock, and at 1.15 we took the boat back across the lake (approx 10 min journey). 

Back to the car, and then on to Signal Mountain Lodge for lunch (burgers & spicy chicken), and – of course – a gift shop!  Returned to Colter Bay at 2.30 to pick up food for tonight (rolls, cheese & tomatoes).  Too hot to even sit in the sun this afternoon.  Bill & Phyl walked down to the Marina to have a look at the museum & visitor centre, but Ada & I stayed at the cabin to recover!  A gorgeous day – no clouds, but a few wisps sitting above the mountain peaks – very picturesque.  In the evening we all sat around outside the cabin, but anti-mozzy spray & citronella bucket seemed to have little effect and we suffered a few more bites.  Saw a very large hare lolloping across the road and off into the woods, and the chipmunks returned for a few nuts that we had put out for them, but unfortunately did not give us the same acrobatic entertainment as the previous night.  Ada had the video camera rigged up on the tripod just in case they decided to perform, but of course they didn’t!  At about 10.00 pm we happened to look up at the night sky & Phyl spotted the space station passing overhead!

Day 5: Thursday 29 May – Colter Bay to Yellowstone (approx 50 mile journey)

At 8.45 am we left Colter Bay and set off for Yellowstone National Park, full of anticipation and excitement at what was in store… On the way we stopped for breakfast at a place called Flagg Ranch, a newly build log cabin style restaurant & gift shop.  The restaurant wasn’t very busy.  A table of 8 ageing Hells Angels had arrived before us and had nearly finished when we arrived, and a couple of other people came in after us. The staff running the place seemed to be OAPs!  Service very slow and we waited over 20 minutes for the food after ordering, coffee refills were similarly hard to get, and half way round the table the waitress just stopped and wandered off leaving poor Bill with an empty cup!  The lady in the gift shop was similarly ‘away with the fairies’, completely at a loss when it came to working the till.  She had 3 attempts at ringing up the 4 items I wanted to buy and failed each time. In the end she had to call the manager to sort it out.  My transaction took over 10 minutes and wished I hadn’t bothered! 

On the way out of the building we spotted about 20 swallow nests which looked like little mud pots with a hole in the middle, built close together under the wooden beams of the porchway with the birds flying in & out of the nests.  Onward to Yellowstone, lots of snow still lying in the hills and at the roadside, river/lakes still partly frozen and landscape had a very wintery feel to it. 

Stopped at Lewis River (and further on Lewis Falls), it was difficult getting from the road down to the river edge which was still partly frozen.  Bill leapt from the road to get down to the edge, but in doing so slipped & fell on all fours with video camera in hand.  Not a good move, although I was sorry not to have captured his daring leap on our video camera!!  With snow/moisture in Bill’s video, it wouldn’t work properly.  But we hoped that after it dried out it would be okay.

Our next stop on entering Yellowstone park was West Thumb Geyser Basin, so called because it is shaped like a human hand with the fingers extended.  It is situated on the shore of Yellowstone Lake (max depth 390 ft, 14 miles/23 km wide, 20 miles long, with a total of 110 miles of shoreline), the largest high elevation lake in North America.  Hot springs & geysers exist just offshore, and the lake is home to swans, trout, otters, pelicans & eagles although we didn’t see any of these. On the far side are the Absaroka mountains. 

On average the West Thumb basin pours 3,100 gallons/11.733 litres of hot water into the lake every day, but the summer time lake temperature is 45^oF (7^oC).  West Thumb has two trails (½ mile outer loop and ¼ mile inner loop). A wooden boardwalk has been constructed for a (relatively) safe tour around the site, passing paint pots, cones, springs, & pools of all colours and sizes.  The vivid colours (blue, green, rusty orange/yellow) are produced by heat-loving micro-organisms (thermophiles).  A fascinating place!

After a couple of hours we moved on to our destination at the Old Faithful Inn and arrived at 1.30 pm.  Old Faithful geyser situated right next to the Inn was just about to go off so we stayed to watch.  Eruptions occur approx every 90 minutes.  As our cabins would not be ready til later, we went into the Inn and had a couple of beers sitting on the sun terrace, and watched Old Faithful go again – I am sure it was better than the first time, more powerful!  The interior of the Inn itself is an intricate wooden structure with about 4 levels accessed only by stairs.  In the centre is a huge stone fire place with rocking chairs positioned in front of it – for those chilly evenings!  Our cabins were ready at 4.30 so we made our way back to Reception to pick up the keys.  Nice large cabins with two queen sized beds in each, and coffee-making facilities – very comfortable.

In the evening the clouds developed and rain came.  We had an early night.

Day 6: Friday 30 May – Snow Lodge Cabins, Yellowstone National Park

With a cloudy start to the day, we set off at 7.30 am to drive to Yellowstone Canyon, on a circulate route of approx 80 miles round trip.  We travelled north stopping at various locations en route including Black Sand Basin (large steam plumes looking like smoke rising from several hot pools.  Morning temperatures approx 7 degrees C.  Saw herds of buffalo roaming in the park. Onward to Biscuit Basin past Gibbon Falls; stopping at Lower & Midway Geyser basin, Firehole river, and at Norris Geyser basin we did a 40 minute trail walk passing the Steamboat geyser which was active and fairly spectacular, but not at its peak. 

At Canyon Village we headed south again stopping at the Yellowstone Canyon to view the upper falls and then on across the bridge to the best viewing spot (Artist’s point) for the lower falls (308 ft drop) and the painted canyon with vivid sandstone colours of yellow, orange & pink.  In the valley of the canyon we could just about see steam rising from a couple of vents. The canyon is 4,000 feet across and 24 miles long.  Light rain started just as we were leaving, so we moved on south past Heydon Valley (more Buffalo herds), stopping at Sulphur Caldron (small lake with sulphur around the perimeter).  Heavier rain started just as we arrived at the Mud Volcano so we decided not to stop. Onward to a place called Fishing Bridge on the shore of Yellowstone Lake where the sun came out and we stopped for coffee & sandwiches. Phyl bought a book on ‘Deaths in Yellowstone’ which had some fascinating tales of people & animals who had met their end whilst in the park.

As we set off again we could see a storm brewing further south over the mountains and it looked very black & threatening.  We stopped to try capture on video some of the impressive lightning bolts descending from the clouds over the mountains (not sure we actually achieved this as every time Ada turned the video on the lightning stopped!)  Unfortunately Bill’s video camera was still playing up.  It was never the same again for the whole of the holiday.  A real disappointment. 

We returned to the Old Faithful Inn through a torrential rain storm, but arrived back at the cabin in brilliant sunshine and about 20^oC.  Saw a coyote trotting across the parking area, completely oblivious to the people.  From 5.00 – 7.00 pm we had a couple of drinks at the Old Faithful Inn bar before going for dinner at the Snow Lodge restaurant (prime rib of beef with mash & carrot balls that tasted of orange!).  Before retiring for an early night we bought some cinnamon rolls & choc chip cookies & muffins for breakfast tomorrow.

Day 7: Saturday 31 May – Snow Lodge Cabins, Yellowstone National Park

Up at 6.30 am for a walk up the valley to see the Castle Geyser go off (due at approx 7.00 am).  We just missed the start of the eruption but it was still impressive when we arrived.  Very cold at that hour but clear and a little cloud.  Ada optimistically wore shorts but the rest of us wore jeans & T-shirts – a mistake as by the time we reached the end of the walk it was bloody freezing!  We crossed over the Firehole River (named by the Indians), and eventually reached the Morning Glory pool (deep blue centre with yellow edges), where the plaque told us that as people had thrown various items into the pool (including tin cans & teddy bears!!) it had partially blocked the water channel, and as a result the colour was not as intense as it should be.  Removing these articles is not only dangerous but could cause further damage to the pool.  

We returned back down the trail to Daisy Geyser to join 4 other people waiting to see it go off.  The ranger turned up on her bike and asked whether we had seen the bear tracks on the tarmac pathway.  Somehow we had missed these, or else the bear had walked down it just after we had(!), so on the way back we had a good look and sure enough there were about 20 white prints clearly visible.   She also told us that not all the animals were able to avoid the hot pools, and unfortunately two buffalo had already perished this year after getting stuck in the thermal pools.  The ranger told us that Daisy would go off within 30 minutes, so we hung around and waited.  Sure enough 15 minutes later it obliged with other smaller pools erupting simultaneously – a spectacular display!  After that we hurried back to the General Stores to get some coffee and warm up. 

At 9.45 am we returned to the cabin to put on more clothes. Bill was feeling a bit ‘off colour’ this morning but seemed okay by mid morning.  At 10.30 we set off fully equipped with food, cameras & clothing to sit and wait for the Grand Geyser go off, due at sometime between 11.00 and 3.30, so it was a case of sitting tight & waiting until it was ready to blow!  We had bets on what time it would go off, and I think I won with the nearest guess of 2.15 pm.

With several thermal pools surrounding it we watched and waited as the activity of the smaller pools increased & abated.  Turbon geyser (adjacent to the Grand) erupted every 17 minutes, the other pools bubbled & erupted and emptied completely before the Grand went off.  All are connected to underground systems.  A hoary/yellow marmot appeared on the rocks on the hillside just behind the Grand and posed for us to take a few photos.  At 1.30 pm the Grand Geyser pool filled to capacity & then erupted in the most amazing tower of steam & water looking like silk with explosive jets like fireworks going off, continuing for 20 minutes whilst Turbon also came into play again.  Just when we thought the Grand had finished, the pool re-filled and off it went again for a 2^nd  time.  Phyl said it could go up to 4 times but it only went twice for us. 

This was by far the most impressive geyser we had seen, and I think it was better than Old Faithful itself!  We returned to the Lodge for a snack, Bill & Ada went back to the cabins while Phyl & I walked a mile up the hillside to Observation Point – a fabulous view over the thermal valley.  Saw a couple of buffalo & a chipmunk on the way.  When then returned and walked another loop trail on the boardwalk seeing the Butterfly geyser go off (this is a new one, only active since the beginning of May this year).  It was not much like a butterfly!  Very brown & muddy water spewed from the vent and ran off underneath the wooden walkway where we stood.  Another pretty one was the Anemone – a small pool which erupted every 5 minutes.

At 5.30 pm we all went off to eat at the Old Faithful Lodge (much cheaper than the Snow Lodge restaurant) at approx $12.00 per head. It was more a canteen than a restaurant, but they had a good range of food.  Bill & Phyl each had the turkey dinner (which was huge!), I had the caramel chicken, and Ada had ‘sloppy joe’s’ (chillie style minced beef).  After supper the sky looked ominous with thunder rumbling and a few flashes of lightning, so we returned to the cabin for an early night and watched the torrential rain beat down outside.

Day 8: Sunday 1 June – Yellowstone National Park – Lava Hot Springs Inn (Idaho)

A long drive today – approx 280 miles from Yellowstone to Lava Hot Springs.  We checked out at 7.00 am with a misty start to the day, but later it became very hot & sunny.   We drove north to exit from the west side of the park passing through Madison where we saw lots more buffalo with calves.  The trees in the park are still recovering from the 1988 fires, but growth is good and new species of flora & fauna are returning.  On the way we stopped at Mesa Falls and met a couple who said they had just seen a mother bear with 2 cubs crossing the road about half a mile down the road.  We looked as we went past the area but couldn’t see anything.  We stopped for breakfast mid morning just north of Driggs.  We were not sure we would find anywhere much open on a Sunday but we were lucky, and the place we stopped at did a great breakfast, so we stopped for an hour.

Travelling south we passed the Teton range on the other side.  Wide open spaces, very agricultural with irrigation systems on wheels for the fields.  We arrived at Lava Hot Springs at approx 2.30 pm. There was a small water theme park at the entrance which was packed to capacity, so we decided not to go there!  The Bed & Breakfast Inn was a lovely old 1930’s style building, very quaint with several hot pools in the grounds (one the size of a large swimming pool that was currently being filled – I think it took all day!).  It was run by Fran & George Katsilambres (mainly run by Fran now because she & George were divorced, but he still played a part and did us a great breakfast next morning).  

The rooms were very comfortable with separate bathrooms, but some rooms had en suite facilities and jacuzzi style bath!  A fast flowing river ran outside our window, and we could see people in large inflatables being swept along by the current.  It looked great fun!  After check-in we took a stroll into town, just two main streets running east/west, called in a the Visitor Centre, Ada bought himself a baseball hat to keep the sun off his bald patch! (Bill already had one – a hat, not a bald patch!). We then stopped at a café for some ice cream & coffee.  Heat really intense, so we returned to the B & B past the quirky Indian style shops and massage therapy parlours.  This is obviously a spa town with the accent clearly on healing the body & soul.

We changed into our swimming gear and launched into the pool at the B & B – like a warm bath, but with a ‘cold plunge’ next to it.  Only Bill did the complete cold plunge, but Phyl & I also got in – up as far as the waist, that was enough!  

After drying off in the sun we later walked to the Chuckwagon bar at 6.00 pm. Inside the bar was very dark and doomy so we sat outside in the shade of the beer garden surrounded by a wooden fence and watched a few people playing ‘horseshoes’ (the aim being to throw the horseshoes from a distance of about 20 feet & hit a metal spike at the end).  We had a couple of beers.  At this point a fishing line was thrown over the fence by someone passing by, and this turned out to "Burv" - a 39 year old native American Indian, and 3^rd generation descendant of Crazy Horse on his mother’s side!  (His birthday was on the same date as Bill’s brother)  We watched him play the horseshoes on his own – he was obviously an expert - and Bill & Ada joined him to learn how to do it.  Ada gave up after a while, but Bill was excellent. 

Phyl knows more about the Indians than any of us, and can probably enlarge on this paragraph.  Burv was a very interesting guy who was in Lava Hot Springs (staying at the same place we were) to work and visit his girlfriend.  He told us more about the native American Indian culture & history of his tribe.  Time ticked by and we still hadn’t eaten, but at 9.30 we ordered a light meal (baked potatoes & sandwiches) and feeling more than a little pissed we ate it and staggered back to the B & B at about 10.15 pm.

Day 9: Monday 2 June – Lava Hot Springs Inn to Heber City (Utah)

After a substantial breakfast of scrambled eggs (with onion!), toast, fruit & coffee/juice (made by George) we left at 8.00 am to drive approx 300 miles to Heber City.  We arrived there at 11.45 and checked into the Holiday Inn.  Fortunately our rooms were ready (we were still feeling the effects of last night’s drinking - me more than the others I think as they seemed to be fine!) and we went in to freshen up.  Bill & Phyl went off to look around the town and down to the Heber Railway Museum (which was closed!), and bought more petrol & beers! 

Ada & I walked to the local supermarket, feeling very hot, where we bought egg mayo croissants & fruit.  At 5.45 pm we went to the restaurant next to the Holiday Inn called ‘Claim Jumper’ – a strange name, and very expensive!  Bill had a huge rack of ribs, Ada the Teryaki steak, and Phyl & I had trout with some very nice baked potatoes with soured cream & chives – all washed down with a bottle of Merlot.  We then returned to our rooms for a relaxing evening watching TV (luxury!) – no beer tonight! 

Day 10: Tuesday 3 June – Heber City to Torrey, Capitol Reef

On leaving the Holiday Inn at Heber, the Wasatch mountain range looked quite impressive with snow still on the peaks – surprising as the temperatures are so high, but it’s obviously much colder on the mountains!  At 8.00 am we had breakfast at the motel (cinnamon buns & coffee) and set off shortly afterwards for our next stop at Torrey, Capitol Reef (via Provo).  We got lost at Springville and ended up on Highway 15 instead of Highway 6.  Nearing Torrey we went through Fishlake National Park – the first signs of canyon-like scenery, colours very striking red rock towering cliffs with clear blue skies above, and surprisingly green in the lowlands.  Torrey is a very small town and the entrance to Capitol Reef National Park.  The road through Torrey was lined with cottonwood trees and a small creek followed the line of the road. 

We arrived at 1.00 pm and checked-in at Days Inn motel where they had an indoor swimming pool & jacuzzi, good size rooms with TV and fridge.  Bill & Phyl had the fridge, instead we had a settee! They kindly let us put some of our beers in their fridge, and offered them the use of our settee in return!!  We encountered a German couple at Reception who seemed to be having a good old moan about the cost of the accommodation and the size of the breakfast room – for a motel you do not expect the Ritz! 

After a half hour rest we took to the road – using our legs this time – to walk to a mile into Torrey (just one main road running through the town).  We made for the Chuckwagon General Store (Chuckwagon seems a popular name in these parts!) where they seemed to sell most things.  We sat outside in the shade of the building and had some refreshments and watched the cottonwood blossom blowing down the street & saw a very pretty large yellow & black butterfly.  On the walk back to the motel we spotted a few deer behind a fence in amongst some trees who took off as we approached and ran into the thicket.  Just after 3.00 we headed for the pool to cool down, and later in the evening we walked to the Wonderland Restaurant (recommended by the lady in Reception) a 10 minute walk up the hill with spectacular views and wonderful food.  Garden salad/soup, Rib Eye steak, pasta & jumbo shrimp (excellent!), and cowboy ground beef patty (a proper minced steak burger without the bun).  Best meal so far.

Day 11: Wednesday 4 June –Torrey, Capitol Reef

Geologic features: colourful cliffs, massive domes, spires, monoliths, canyons and arches, Waterpocket Fold.  Fremont river, cactus, juniper trees, Petroglyphs.  The Fremont Indians lived, hunted & farmed here for over 1000 years, leaving sometime after AD 1250.  In the 1800’s, Mormon pioneers came to the Fremont valley setting up the Fruita community – the orchards they set up are still productive (cherry, plum, apricot, peach & pear trees), and the old school house still stands, and is kept as a museum with the original furniture & books etc.

Breakfast at 7.00, coffee/juice & freshly cooked waffles which we made ourselves – yummy!.  Phyl had been woken in the night by a mouse scurrying across the pillow!  At 8.00 am we set off to explore some of Capitol Reef National Park passing Chimney Rock set apart on its own towering approx 1500 feet, Castle Rock stopping at the Visitor Centre to pick up trail info.  Very quiet at this time of day, not many people about. 

We set off on the Scenic Drive taking us down the Waterpocket Fold (buckling rock).  We soon took a turning off to drive down the Grand Wash canyon (really only suitable for 4-wheel drive vehicles), which had prominent signs warning us not to proceed if storm was threatening as it was prone to flash flooding and our lives would be in danger!  Fortunately the weather was hot & sunny so we decided to chance it!  We went past some holes in the rock which was the site of an old uranium mine (opened in 1904). The sheer sided cliffs towered above us on both sides of this canyon as it got narrower & narrower. 

We stopped and got out of the vehicle to have a look at Cassidy Arch way up at the top of the plateau (named after Butch Cassidy who was thought to have hidden occasionally at Grand Wash). Difficult to see the arch except with the aid of binoculars. Cloudless deep blue sky contrasting with the red/yellow/ brown rock – lizards scurrying about in the sandy soil.  Bill & Phyl decided to walk a bit further down the gorge.  Not a soul about and hardly a sound until Bill tried out the gorge’s echo effect by calling Ada & I to drive on down and meet them!  Eventually the ‘road’ ended and it was only possible to continue by walking down a narrow trail so we turned back to continue the main scenic drive route, passing the old wagon trail and Egyptian Temple rock formation.  At the end of the paved road we reached Capitol Gorge – only 2 cars parked here.  11.00 am: now getting extremely hot so we took water and continued the trail on foot.  High up on the sides of the gorge six names were carved into the rock including Isaac Hayes(!) with a date of September 1911.  We walked for half an hour down the gorge and Bill went to check out the trail further ahead to see what was there. The temperature was rapidly increasing and the decision was made to return to the car and head back for refreshments.

12.30 pm  Returning past the visitor centre we went to see the Petroglyphs on the cliffs of the Fremont Valley, supposedly carved into the rock face by the Indians.  Some were obviously animals, but the figures looked like aliens/spacemen!  We pondered for a while on whether they really were supposed to be aliens or whether the Indians were just bad artists, and was there a reason for choosing to draw these figures?  I guess we’ll never know the truth.  We then visited the Mormon Fruita settlement area and the old school house which contained all the original furniture (including desk carvings!).  The Fremont Valley is very lush with much vegetation including cottonwood, tamariske & ash trees, vetches & lupines.  A wide variety of colourful birds including the mountain bluebird.

1.30 pm We drove back to Torrey to the Chuckwagon Store for cold drink & snack which we shared with a large yellow dog who was chillin’ out at the store.  Back at the motel Ada managed to block up the loo – the bowl was brimming!  A plunger & bucket +towels were provided by the nice lady in Reception.  After about 10 minutes of ‘plunging’ the blockage cleared but the floor was awash and needs no further description at this stage!!

After a rest followed by a swim in the pool we felt refreshed and sat outside with a couple of beers before returning to the Wonderland Restaurant again for dinner – really excellent food.

Day 12: Thursday 5 June –Torrey, Capitol Reef – Bryce Canyon

On leaving our room this morning for breakfast we saw ‘the mouse’ run from the door of one room and disappear under the door of the opposite room – so Phyl’s mouse appears to have the run of the motel!  After breakfast of waffles & bagels at 7.00 am, we drove to east on Hwy 24 to walk the Hickman Bridge trail.  We had debated whether to do this yesterday afternoon but it was too hot, so decided on an early start today instead.  This is described as a ‘moderate’ 1 mile walk but it was more strenuous and seemed longer than a mile! 

Ada decided to stay behind at the river and attempt a less arduous walk to the other side of the Fremont river.  The Fremont was named after John C Fremont, a famous frontier explorer (although some info refers to the Fremont Indians).  Armed with water bottles, video & cameras Bill, Phyl & I set off on the trail, climbing up 400 feet from the car park.  En route passing high white domes of Navajo sandstone knobs & Capitol dome (this area was once a desert 180 million years ago), black volcanic rocks (remains of ancient lava flow torn loose by glaciers).  Trees of pinon pine & Utah juniper, and yucca plants which the Fremont people used to use to make mats, baskets, rope and apparently also used it to make shampoo!  The trail continued down into a small partly shaded gorge with vegetation and pure white beach-type sand – cougar & chipmunks reside in these parts.

We eventually reached the Hickman Bridge just after 9.00 am – named after Joseph S Hickman who worked to preserve Capitol Reef as a park.  This was a spectacular natural sandstone arch, 133 ft wide and 125 ft above the ground.  On to the edge of the cliff and a fabulous view out over the Fremont Valley and beyond – clear blue sky.  It took 45 minutes to walk up to the bridge but only 20 minutes to get back down again by which time the temperature was already in the 80’s.  We found Ada sitting beside the river and we then made our way back to the motel to check out.

10.00 am  We left Torrey and headed south on Hwy 12 scenic drive towards our next stop, Bryce Canyon.  Our journey took us to higher elevations of Dixie National Forest where we saw four mule deer crossing the road (mother + 3 young ones), and stopping on the top at a view point it was extremely cold with no protection from the strong wind.  We drove on going over the Hogsback – a knife edge where the narrow road travels over the top of a ridge with steep canyons on either side (not a place to be crossing in the snow!), and on to the town of Boulder (the last place in America to receive mail).  Through the Escalante Grand Staircase (established in 1996 by Bill Clinton as a national monument), which links Capitol Reef with Bryce Canyon, stopping at the Kiva Koffee House.  This was a perfect spot and a good vantage point where they brewed excellent coffee!  Wonderful views down the green fertile valley. 

By 1.00 pm we had reached the Escalante Petrified Forest area, and stopped to walk the 1 mile trail (again up hill all the way, and in the heat!).  Great view from the top over the lake.  The only sound we could hear on the hill top was that of the ciccadas.  Various pieces of colourful petrified wood were scattered around, and – much to my delight – various pretty cactus plants of yellow & pink.  More photo opportunities!

At 2.15 pm we arrived back at the car from the trail walk and continued driving on to Bryce which we reached at 3.45 pm.  Fabulous log cabins with two queen size beds – nicer than Colter Bay cabins at Tetons.  There was no TV, but we did have a radio so were able to be in touch with the outside world again!  After visiting the store to buy sandwiches & drinks we managed to reserve a table for dinner at 8.45 pm (the earliest slot they had – obviously a busy place!).  Our cabins were adjoining, and a narrow pathway led to the rim of Bryce Canyon itself – just 2 minutes walk from the cabin.  What an incredible sight!  (The photos explain all)

7.00 pm sitting on seats in the porchway of the cabins we had a couple of beers.  Bill’s whisky had leaked all over his clothes, so his ‘cool’ white shirt was not wearable.  We strolled to Bryce Canyon Lodge at 8.15 to check out the gift shop, and dinner.  On the menu was something called a Tilapia fish (apparently popular in the Far East) – never heard of it so I decided to try it - quite tasty.  At 9.45 we returned to the cabin for an early night.  Very dark and ideal of star-gazing, the Plough was very distinctive.  Bed at 10.15 pm.

Day 13: Friday 6 June – Bryce Canyon

6.00 am.  Ada up at the Rim to film the sunrise over the canyon (I stayed in bed – too early!  Bill & Phyl met him at Sunrise point, and I followed at 7.00 am.  Very cold at this hour.  At the Lodge only coffee was available this early in the day.

8.00 am.  Set off to drive to Ruby’s (10 mins down the road) for a proper breakfast of eggs, bacon & toast.  At the general store we picked up some more beers and were asked for ID before they would sell them to us! We then drove on to Mossy Cave (15 mins drive).  Entrance had spectacular rock formations which we had passed on the way in yesterday.  1 mile trail to the cave & small waterfall.  Weird rock formations (one looked like Goofy!) with weather worn holes in the sandstone rock & more hoodoos (like those at Bryce).  Mossy cave: a little moss and not much cave!, but a natural spring comes from here, and early settlers used to camp in this area.

10.30 am Returned to Bryce Canyon to do the scenic drive to various viewpoints (approx 18 miles of road) including Piracy Point, Agua Canyon natural bridge was very impressive, Ponderosa Canyon & Rainbow Point at the end of the road.  Here we walked the Bristlecone loop trail.  This was described as ‘moderately strenuous’ but the high elevation (9115 feet above sea level) made it pretty hard going.  At Rainbow Point there was a trail that went down into the canyon but it would take a whole day to do this – we felt too hot & exhausted to even attempt it!   The Rainbow promontory was subject to lightning strikes being so exposed and there were bizarre remnants of trees which appeared to have turned to charcoal as a result.  The was a distinct lack of barriers and it was easy to see how people could fall over the edge!  On the return drive back to Bryce village we decided to stop at Bryce Point. 

Not knowing what to expect, we were confronted with the most spectacular view of the whole holiday!  The viewpoint looked out over the valley of orange/yellow/white hoodoos standing like thousands of terracotta soldiers.  Ada had to return to the car to get his macro lens for the camera in order to get some better shots. Standing on the edge of the promontory the wind was very strong, but fortunately there were railing surrounding it to stop us being blown over the edge!  We then drove on to Inspiration Point – a similar view to Bryce Point but closer to the rim edge.  We saw a chipmunk darting over the edge of the cliff – no fear! – unlike Ada who found the heights at Bryce & Inspiration pretty scary!

3.30 pm we went back to Bryce Lodge for coffee & ice cream & gift shop.  Bought book on ‘Deaths in Grand Canyon’.  More people here than previously experienced – obviously a popular place!  It is certainly a memorable sight, and Phyl thought it was probably more impressive than the Grand Canyon (which Ada & I had yet to experience).

7.45 pm  Dinner at the Lodge.  We all had clam chowder and prime rib of beef with mash & carrots – very tasty.

9.00 pm – Back at Bill & Phyl’s cabin for a Becks Special – Yellowstone whisky & lemonade. Discussion about ‘mannerisms’ & video-face!  Chipmunks bounding around the camp site and we watched one emerged from underneath Bill & Phyl’s cabin that had acquired a sweet and sat eating it just in front of the porch.

Day 14: Saturday 7 June – Bryce Canyon - North Rim, Grand Canyon, Arizona (Moth City)

I had a bad night last night, woke almost every hour – full of food.  Bill & Phyl related their story of the battle of the spider in the bath.  Clear skies this morning and cool start to the day.  7.30 am coffee at the Lodge before checking out at 8.10 am.  Today we leave Bryce and set off for the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.  Leaving Bryce behind the road took us through Red Canyon on to Hwy 89.  Police cars passed us at speed and we later found the reason – a bad accident several miles down the road.  Around mid morning we stopped at Mt Carmel Junction for breakfast at the Thunderbird restaurant – as recommended by Bill & Phyl who had visited last time they were here. 

It should have been called ‘hummingbird restaurant’ as we sat and watched several of these small birds dipping into the sugar water containers that were hung outside to attract them.  Filled up the vehicle with petrol, picked up more beer, and visited the gift shop (of course!).  Continued on our journey via Kanab – a fairly large Mexican-style town, and Fredonia where we stopped to buy another memory card for B & P’s digital camera. Heading south across the plain, then climbing again to 8000 feet going through the Kaibab National Forest.  Very pretty with pine trees and shimmering aspens in the hills and large expanse of green meadow below the tree line.  On entering Grand Canyon National Park we passed into a different time zone and put our watches back one hour.

It was even hotter when we arrived at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.  Ada & Phyl checked in and Bill & I made a booking for dinner (only slot available 8.45 pm).  Later we found our deluxe cabin which Phyl had booked a year previously in order to get best accommodation – wonderful spot, with two rocking chairs on the front porchway which overlooked the road/pathway. Good proximity to the Lodge and 5 minute walk to the edge of the canyon.  Traffic not allowed to drive in this area, except for the ‘milk floats’ which were used to convey baggage from the car park to the cabins (they looked like something out of the Prisoner). 

Our cabins were right next to the book store (the temptation to buy was overwhelming!), and the porch faced west into the afternoon & evening sun.  The thought of sitting in the rocking chairs supping a beer or two watching the sun go down was a happy thought for later in the day. Before that, however, Phyl & I set off to walk the Bright Angel trail to Bright Angel Point, and Bill & Ada went in the other direction – a shorter trip.  Bright Angel is a narrow trail with few barriers leading out to an impressive viewpoint (which thankfully does have barriers).  The view across to the South Rim (some 10 miles away) was very hazy, and the mile drop to the canyon below was a worrying sight!  It was 30^oC on the north rim, but nearer 40^oC down in the canyon itself – so we didn’t venture down there!  Too far anyway – at least a day’s journey. 

Back at the Lodge some folks said they had spotted two condors flying high over the lodge a little earlier, but we had missed that! We returned to the cabin with ice creams, unpacked, and visited the bookstore. A few coaches were sitting outside with engines running for ages, waiting to take people out of the park.  A stream of people walked past our cabin, several stopping to ask how much it was to stay there.  Ada decided to count the number of fat people who walked past.  After an hour or so he decided that about 70% were overweight! 

We had a message that my friend Janet had phoned from Calgary to wish Ada Happy Birthday – she thought it was today.  Bill was able to change our dinner booking to 5.30 as there had been a cancellation.   He also made the booking for Monday (Ada’s birthday).  The dining room at the Lodge was like a large hall with a high ceiling and massive viewing windows – these were partly obscured by the presence of large moths which appeared to be everywhere! (even in our cabins).  We later learned that it was the migratory path for the moths, and they were not normally present in such large numbers.  In the company of moths, although they didn’t bother us too much, we had dinner: Phyl had the chicken, Bill the pork, Ada leg of lamb, and I had the duck breast salad (I had hoped that the duck would at least be warm, but it wasn’t – so disappointing).  After dinner we waited for the sunset due at 7.30 pm, but it was disappointing as cloud obscured the sun at the crucial time.  We were hoping for a nice red glow over the canyon but it didn’t happen.

The North Rim is 1000 feet higher in elevation than the South Rim which is 7000 feet.  The North is therefore cooler and has more snow in the winter.  In 1919 the US Congress pronounced Grand Canyon a national park for preservation, and 60 years later it was declared a World Heritage Site.

We decided to have an early night and get up at 5.00 am to try and get some video/photos of the sunrise.

Day 15: Sunday 8 June – North Rim, Grand Canyon (still in the company of moths)

Despite disposing of half a dozen moths before going to bed, by the morning more had found their way into the bathroom (God knows how as the windows were closed!).  Bill had a technique of whacking them & flushing them down the loo, but I preferred the cup & card method of disposal and set them free outdoors. 

Considering the early start at 5.00 am it wasn’t too cold, but we put on several layers of clothing before leaving to video the sunrise just in case it got chilly.  On the terrace outside the Lodge we saw some chipmunks and even one of the Kaibab squirrels with a white tail – shy and rarely seen - only found on the North Rim of the canyon.  The sunrise was worth waiting for, and Ada set the video camera to take one shot every 2 minutes to get time-lapse footage.  At 7.00 am the coffee shop was open and we had a hot drink & baclava.  Bill & Phyl had breakfast and went off to walk the Transcept Trail (approx 1.5 miles) to the General Store.  Ada & I later drove there to meet them, seeing mule deer on the way.  Sunday today, and there are no coaches in the park – hurrah!

10.30 am  We set off to do the scenic drive to Cape Royal (about 20 miles) stopping at various viewpoints of the canyon on the way, a very winding narrow road that only just allowed two-way traffic.  Phyl spotted a Turkey Vulture close to the roadside.  At Cape Royal it was possible to see the Colorado River way off in the distance, but with the help of binoculars & zoom on the video camera we had a good view.  Storm clouds gathered over the South Rim and thunder rumbled in the distance.  The wind got up and a few spots of rain were felt so we returned to the vehicle and drove back to the cabin arriving at 3.00 pm.  Still a bit cloudy but very warm back at camp. No so many people to watch today as we sat outside in the rocking chairs having a beer or two.

This evening we decided to eat at the only other ‘eatery’ at the North Rim – the cafeteria.  Bill & Phyl had the teryaki stir fry and Ada & I had a 14 inch pizza – a monstrous thing that we couldn’t finish between us so took a couple of pieces back in a doggy bag.  Too cloudy this evening to even attempt capturing the sunset on film.  Bill & Phyl had found evidence of a ‘visitor’ in their cabin – not sure if it was a mouse or chipmunk and asked Reception what to do.  They thought it was probably a mouse and a mousetrap was installed to catch the culprit.  (Not allowed to kill the chipmunks, but killing mice is apparently OK!).

Day 16: Monday 9 June – North Rim, Grand Canyon (ADA’s 50^th Birthday!)

Bill & Phyl had spent part of the previous evening blowing up birthday balloons for Ada, and early in the morning had crept onto our porch and put up 50^th birthday banners and tied the balloons to the posts.  The sight greeted Ada first thing in the morning, and we then had a card & present opening ceremony.  They had bought him a wonderful silver picture frame inscribed with ‘Grand Canyon 9 June 2003’.

Update on the mouse situation: After B & P rang to report the culprit was in the trap, a ranger turned up with a vaccum cleaner thinking they had a problem with the moths!  But he kindly removed the trap and contents.

8.15 am  We got some coffee from the cafeteria.  B & P had already had breakfast there and said it was too cold to sit inside as they still had the air conditioning on!  So we sat outside in the warm sunshine to have coffee.

8.30 am  We met at the Visitor Centre to set off on the Ranger’s nature tour (about one and a half hours).  Our Guide was Bethany, a large lady from Arizona (amongst other places!) who took us into the forest showing us one of the oldest ponderosa trees – sniffing the bark of the tree it smelt of vanilla/butterscotch.  Told us about the Kaibab squirrel & its habitat.  It eats the bark of the ponderosa and hence ensures the tree seeds are returned to the soil to generate new saplings.  Other creatures found in the forest include snakes (some disguise themselves as poisonous coral snakes, and others shake their tails like rattlesnakes to ward off predators but in fact aren’t poisonous at all), lizards (which are all female and lay their own eggs), toads etc.  She finished back at the Lodge with a brief geological talk about the igneous & metamorphic & sedimentary rocks.

10.20 am  We set off on the 40 minute drive to Imperial Point (elev 8500 ft). Great views over the canyon, chatted with the ranger who was a Professor of Geology and told us about the prescribed burn in 2000 that went out of control around Imperial Point and beyond.  The prescribed burns are essential to clear the build up of forest floor material that would pose an even greater fire hazard if left uncleared – especially from lightning strikes.

Midday.  Drove back to the North Rim and we all walked to Bright Angel Point (half a mile), looking back at Roaring Spring Canyon.  Ada was not very happy about the narrow pathway and the mile drop to the canyon floor, but hanging on to the rocks he made it to the end.

1.45 pm  We made it back to the sun terrace of the Lodge, and at 2.30 Ranger Bethany gave another interesting talk on condors.  Since the early fifties it was realised that the condors were close to extinction with only 17 left in North America.  Part of the reason for the declining population is that they used to live off larger animals that are now extinct from North America. Humans and power lines are also a serious hazard to them.  A re-introduction programme was commenced in the 1950’s. They captured some of the existing condors and tried to breed them in captivity. Recently heard that a condor chick has been born outside captivity in the canyon area.  The condors are released from the Vermillion Cliffs north of the Canyon and it is lucky that they choose to stay within this area.  The birds are labelled with numbers and tagged with radio transmitters for tracking purposes (even new chicks are tagged).  Some do not survive. Where possible, they are given ‘aversion therapy’ to help them avoid power lines and humans.

By the time we got back to the cabin at 4.00 pm some of the balloons had burst in the heat!  We decided to change plans and head north to the Vermillion Cliffs the next day, and stay at Page to visit the Glen Canyon dam and Lake Powell.   Phyl phoned ahead to the Arrowhead at Mt Carmel to see whether we could stay an extra night there, and that was confirmed. 

We had a couple of beers sitting on the porch and at 6.45 we headed off to the Lodge for Ada’s Birthday Dinner: New York steaks all round!.  We then had one drink in the bar before returning for an early night at 9.00 pm – we all felt drained with the heat & the altitude!

Day 17: Tuesday 10 June – North Rim, Grand Canyon – Page/Glen Canyon Dam (Arizona)

7.30 am  Clear blue skies.  Coffee at the Lodge and left Grand Canyon at 8.10 am to travel on Hwy 89A to Page.  On this road we stopped at a viewpoint of the Vermillion Cliffs and met up with Phil Johnson – a large guy who had his own truck.  He told us about his job driving all over the US, and about his rig which cost about 56,000 dollars!   He showed Bill & Ada inside his truck which had everything one could possibly need for travelling.  Further on we stopped at a place called Cliff Dwellers for breakfast – the best breakfast ever! (3 egg omelettes stuffed with bacon & tomatoes & mushrooms). This was neither a village nor a town, but it was a good place to stop for sustenance, and it was HOT!  The owner/chef told us about a place a few miles down the road called the Rock House where we stopped briefly to explore.  At the foot of the cliffs were huge 30-40ft boulders that had been adapted and used as dwellings in earlier times.  Moving on we arrived at Navajo Bridge which crosses the Colorado River and on to Page where we checked into the Motel 6.  Nice outdoor swimming pool.  We then drove a few miles up the road to the Glen Canyon Dam and took advantage of the guided tour.  Afterwards we continued north to the Wahheap Marina on Lake Powell, before returning to the motel and Walmart to pick up some supplies.  We booked a boat trip for the following day to do a Float down the Colorado River.  Later we sat at the pool and watched the sunset whilst having a couple of beers!  Perfect sky.

Day 18: Wednesday 11 June  Page, Colorado River Float (Arizona)/ Mt Carmel Junction

Beautiful clear morning.  7.00 am we checked out from the motel and set off for the Wilderness Tours Office to meet the coach that would take us on the river trip from Glen Canyon Dam to Lees Ferry.  Before reaching the dam we had to go through a 2 mile tunnel, at which point a security check was made – we all had to get off the coach and have our bags checked for any ‘suspect devices’.  At the base of the dam we all had to put on hard hats to walk from the coach to the boat (just in case any rocks should fall on us!).  There were about 5 float boats that set off on the trip at 8.00 am.  Our guide was Jim Duffy (from Minnesota) a very interesting and informative guide who had been doing the trip for 10 years.  The other boats contained about 30 people, but ours had only 15. 

The water was very green due to algae.  In contrast the water the other side of the dam (Lake Powell) is deep blue.  The trip down the river was 8 miles as the crow flies, but with all the twists & turns the total distance we travelled was 15 miles down to Lees Ferry.  Jim pointed out an eagle’s nest high up on the cliff face, and we also spotted an eagle soaring high overhead.  We pulled in and disembarked half way down the river for viewing of some petroglyphs.  The water looked very inviting, but it was actually freezing as I found out when I paddled!  A couple of Scandinavian guys took the plunge and confirmed that it was indeed – freezing! (about 8^oC).  We saw lizards doing ‘press ups’ on the rock (something they do if they feel threatened).  Gnats/mosquitoes were also a nuisance – but Jim said they only live for one day “so wish them a good day when you see ‘em”!

At 11.15 we arrived at Lees Ferry.  This is where the Grand Canyon officially starts. Our coach driver (Cindy) met us here and drove us back to Page.  Cindy is a Navajo Indian and during the journey back to Page she told us about herself and family and the traditions of the Navajo Indians.  Back in Page we went for lunch at Denny’s restaurant, and then on to Basha’s supermarket for food snacks for tonight.

At about 1.30 pm we set off for Mt Carmel Junction to our next stop at the Arrowhead Bed & Breakfast (about 120 miles).  Time change again as back in Utah, and arrived at the Arrowhead later that afternoon.  Our hosts were Jane & Jim – we didn’t actually meet him, but only saw him from afar!  They had a daughter (Laura – early 20’s) and a son.  When we arrived Jane & Laura were busy building a pond in the back garden.  They showed us to our rooms.  Someone had cancelled, so they were able to offer us an upgrade, and Bill & Phyl had the deluxe suite complete with jacuzzi!  Ada & I had the double room with en suite bathroom.  Downstairs was housed the largest video collection ever seen!  We decided they must have once owned a video library – or perhaps they supplied the whole town even now! 

Having stocked up with a few beers we sat outside on their newly made patio and very comfortable chairs and chatted until it became dark. We were also introduced to the many animals that lived on this smallholding.  2 dogs (Birdy a six month old dachshund), Polly an elderly mixed breed, 4 cats (one with only one eye), 4 goats penned in the front garden, 2 horses (that we could see, there may have been more), 3 peacocks, a duck –quite a menagerie!  As it was such a nice place and it was convenient for Zion & Cedar Breaks, we decided we would stay here for three nights if the rooms were available and use this as our base.

 With TV and video in the bedroom and a huge video library to choose from, we went to bed at 9.45 pm.  The bed was so comfortable – just like home! 

Day 19: Thursday 12 June – Arrowhead B & B at Mt Carmel Junction –Zion Ntl Park

8.30 am.  Hot sunny day.  Breakfast provided by Jane: fruit & yoghurt, egg & spicy sausage, juice/coffee set us up for the day.  Peacocks strutted about on the patio.  At 10.15 we set off for Zion National Park, driving through a 2 mile tunnel then into the park via the switchback road that seemed to go on forever, down into the canyon. On arrival we drove to the Visitor Centre and parked.  Shuttle buses run every 7-10 minutes throughout the day taking tourists into Zion  canyon, stopping at various points of interest on the way – getting on & off the buses as and when the mood takes.  Until recently it was possible to drive into the canyon, but in order to reduce congestion and pollution the shuttle service was set up and is very successful.  We took the bus to the end of the canyon (about 6 miles) which took about 25-30 minutes. 

Here we took the Riverside Walk, very pretty & shaded in parts beside the river.  Squirrels & chipmunks were very tame and even posed for camera shots.  Although there were signs everywhere asking visitors NOT to feed them, it was obvious some people ignored the request. Bill & Phyl continued to walk up the shallow river when the pathway ran out but Ada & I stayed back and paddled in the cool stream.  Back on the bus we stopped at Weeping Rock and Zion Lodge where we had ice cream (which Bill promptly dropped down his front!).  It was very busy here, and while Ada crashed out on the grass Bill & Phyl & I walked to the Emerald Pool (about 1.5 miles).  In view of the drought in recent years, this was more of a puddle than a pool, and the waterfall that fed into it was more of a trickle!  On the way back to meet up with Ada we saw a Peahen and 6 chicks wandering about in the park – desperately trying to avoid the visitors who were so fascinated by the sight that they followed where ever the peahen & her chicks went.  Back on the bus and stopped at the Court of the Patriarchs.  Not as clear as when we came up on the bus but still quite impressive (morning is obviously the best time to take in this view).  

We left the canyon at about 4.00 pm and headed back to Mt Carmel Junction, stopping at the Thunderbird Restaurant for dinner before returning to the Arrowhead B & B at 6.30 pm.  We  watched Laura who was in the final stages of filling the pond she had prepared the day before.  We had a few beers and met George & Rosemary from Lincoln who were also staying at the B & B.  They had arrived the previous night, and today had been to the Grand Canyon and back (a long day for them – about 300 miles).  This evening Jane told us that the Fire Brigade were planning on doing a training exercise at the ramshackled and run-down motel opposite, but there did not appear to be much activity.

The Arrowhead B & B was such a super place to stay and so ‘homely’  that we enquired if we could stay for another 2 nights.  We were in luck, and Jane (the owner) said it would be no problem.  They have an incredible library of video tapes downstairs – so many in fact that it was diffficult to make a selection as to what to watch!.  The house is open plan on ground level:  a large lounge and huge (approx 40”) TV screen, with an adjacent rustic kitchen – lots of 40’s & 50’s artefacts.  Downstairs (underground) is like a rabbit warren with rooms going off in all directions.  Bill & Phyl had the ‘suite’ with jacuzzi bath, Ada & I had en suite bathroom, TV & video, and the bed was almost as comfortable as home!

Day 20: Friday 13 June – Arrowhead B & B at Mt Carmel Junction –Cedar Breaks Natl Monument

08.30 Breakfast with ‘proper’ scrambled eggs (not an omelette as we have been given at other places when we asked for scrambled), bacon & waffles with hot cinnamon peaches, and water melon.  At breakfast we met up with George & Rosemary again, and the other two people staying at the B & B (Americans).  10.00 am we set off for Cedar Breaks, after greeting the goats that were penned next to our vehicle. They were friendly but quite shy.  On the way to Cedar Breaks we took a left turn off to have a look at Navajo Lake - a natural lake with sink holes, causing the water to run out underground at Duck Creek and Cascade Falls downstream.  We also passed some weird ancient lava flows with massive volcanic boulders.  There was also a cinder cone from the last eruption some 1000 years ago. 

We reached Cedar Breaks which has similar rock formations to Bryce Canyon but on a smaller scale.  It is actually higher above sea level than Bryce and can have snowfall at any time of the year!  We took the walk to the Alpine Lake, but ended up taking the wrong trail and eventually returned to the car.  The air was very thin and we didn’t have much water with us.  After Cedar we drove on to Panquin lake – a small resort where watersports were the pastime in the summer, moving on and driving through to the town of Panguitch, stopping for coffee at a place called Hatch and then returning to Arrowhead B & B for a re-pack of the cases and coffee.  At 6.00 pm we drove to Mt Carmel Junction for supper (liver & onions, New York steak, salmon.  These were presented to us with Scones which appeared to be doughnuts with a raspberry sauce and honey & mayo dressing.  Very strange – certainly different!

Day 21: Saturday 14 June – Arrowhead B & B to Provo

 The day was hot!  We had breakfast at 8.30 consisting of warm homemade scones and spicy white peppery sauce (called a cowboy breakfast, Jane told us).  It was certainly substantial and set us up for the day and our journey today.  We said goodbye to our hosts and all the animals, setting off at 9.30 am for a four and a half hour drive heading north to Provo on our way back to Salt Lake City.  After stopping for a short break en route we arrived at the Holiday Inn in Provo at about 2.00 pm.  The Holiday Inn had a great outdoor pool – very welcome for a dip as it was still very hot (about 30^oC), and by 3.00 pm we were lounging by the pool which was deserted apart from one other person. 

We were recommended to try Ruby’s Steak House situated within the motel complex, and at 6.00 pm we made our way back to our rooms to get ready for the Steak House.  It was very busy and obviously a popular place to eat, but we ordered our drinks & food.  I had a fabulous raspberry smoothie (non-alcoholic) – a very luxurious milkshake with cream & ice cream and fresh raspberries – the best smoothie ever!  For the main meal I had artichoke dip which came with a small loaf of bread!, Bill & Phyl had the shrimp cocktail and Ada the coconut shrimp with marmalade dip.  Phyl got the best deal with the main course – giant shrimp kebabs.  We all wish we had gone for the same, but the steaks we had were superb.  We had all eaten too much and decided to have an early night at around 9.00 pm to prepare for the onward journey tomorrow to Salt Lake City.

Day 22: Sunday 15 June – Provo to Salt Lake City

Sadly the time had come to return home, and we all felt a bit depressed at the prospect of returning home to our normal day to day life.  Bill seemed to enjoy reminding us that we would soon be back at work!.  We left the Holiday Inn at 8.45 am to drive the short distance to Salt Lake City, arriving at 9.30am. 

En route we passed the American Express building where Ada said he knew some of the people who worked there, but we didn’t stop to say ‘Hi’!  We did an extra circuit of the airport because we missed the turning off to return the vehicle.  The flight was on time, scheduled to leave at 12.40 pm so we had a bit of time to kill – just as well because the check-in arrangements were a bit chaotic!  We eventually found the right check-in desk and then hung around until departure.  The first leg of the journey took us to Cincinnati to get the connecting flight to Gatwick.  There was only an hour in between so Ada & I had a quick beer and then headed for the departure gate, only to find that nearly everyone else was already on board and they were waiting to leave. 

An hour into the flight the Captain announced that the plane had a minor fault, so we had to land in New York to change planes.  This caused a 2 hour delay, but as it was the only hitch of the whole holiday we couldn’t complain too much.  We eventually arrived back at Gatwick at about 09.45 am instead of 08.10 on Monday morning.  Our taxi driver Tony was there to meet us – we were all pleased not to have to worry about getting a train or bus back to Brighton.  We all felt a bit jaded after the long journey, but the memories of the holiday will stay with us forever. It is all too easy to forget some of the incidentals but hopefully this journal will remind us of our ‘once in a lifetime’ trip, and reading it will help us to re-live the whole event in the long winter months ahead.

THE END!